Clothing Resources for Civilians I

Following up on the "what to wear" post: where to get what you wear.

For the budget-minded reenactor, making your own clothing is by far the most economical option.  If you know how to sew, great!  If you want to learn, even better!  We're happy to help.  There are also other options: get something custom made, buy used, or buy "off the rack".  Whatever your choice(s), here are some on-line resources you may find helpful.

[Note: Outside sites ahead.  They don't represent the views of the 4th US or WCWA, etc. I am also not affliated with any, save for my personal blog, which is all my own views and not those of the 4th, etc.]

Sewing Advice and General Help

• My List of Free On-line Patterns and Instructions
• The Sewing Academy Forums: ask, and someone will explain; the fabric-checking threads offer lots of good insight into period textile designs
• Liz Clark's Free Patterns; also check out the budget/sewing plan at the end of the True Cost of Accuracy article
• Various Facebook groups; there are tons, covering many different subtopics; I really like The Authentic Civil War Civilian, and The Civilian Civil War Closet

Patterns

• KayFig/ FigLeaf (I've made up the Simplicity 2890 undergarments and the Kay Figg 611 wrapper, and highly recommend the designer based on these.  My thoughts on the wrapper pattern.)
• The Dressmaker's Guide  I love this one so much that I now have two copies of it.  Full effusive praise here.
• Past Patterns (Do not have personal experience with most of these, I hear mostly good things about them, and the lines are good)
• Truly Victorian (Ditto)
• Laughing Moon (Again, haven't personally made them, but they come highly recommended)
• Simplicity: I have a lot of these, and have made up several of them (they go on-sale for $1-2 at Jo-Ann regularly).  The "Fashion Historian" and "Museum Curator" lines have good shapes, but you do need to be careful of modern techniques and ease added by the publisher (see this discussion and this one for specific commentary).  Avoid the steampunk and generic "historic" costume patterns. Currently in print, there seams to be one dress, and two undergarment sets.

For soft bonnets, there are some free patterns on line. For fancier wear, patterns, kits, blanks, and complete bonnets are available through Miller's Millinery, Timely Tresses (I am, again, a very satisfied customer), Mrs. Parker's, and Anna Worden Bauersmith (she makes lovely straw forms).

Weird Supplies, on-line
(hook-and-eye tape, hem tape, hoop steel, corset boning and busks, metal grommet setters, etc.)

• Farthingale's Canada: my favorite place for busks and corset bones
• Corsetmaking: corset & hoop supplies; I had a bad experience with their buckram-covered hoop steel
• Originals by Kay: corset and hoop kits, hook-and-eye tape 
• Abraham's Lady: corset supplies, hoopsteel, bonnet wire, twill tape, and hook-and-eye tape; I would personally not recommend using cotton hem tape, though 
• Needle & Thread/ Wooded Hamlet: cage crinoline kits, tapes and trims 
• Wm. Booth, Draper: wool tape and fine fabrics; this establishment caters to 18th century costuming, and not all items are appropriate for 19th century use
• The Button Baron: buttons; note the year range (1840-1940), not all buttons are appropriate for all uses 

Local Suppliers (mostly Seattle, WA)

• The Fitting Room: the ONLY local source I know for corset supplies; also makes custom corsets
• Nancy's Sewing Basket: best local source for silks and fine cotton material; they also carry silk ribbon and vintage flowers for bonnets; be prepared to pay for quality
• Pacific Fabrics: has some silks and passable cotton prints
• Hancock Fabrics: carries 100% cotton shirting plaids, 100% cotton broadcloth for undergarments 
• JoAnn: calico print selection getting very sparse; still carries Simplicity & Butterick patterns (see above); utility section includes 100% cotton crinoline (for lining fashion bonnets), toweling, and buckram (this is too flimsy for bonnet use, but can work in belts and swiss waists); muslin for toiles, linings, and cheap undergarments
• Timeless Stitches (in the Tacoma Antique Mall) has shell, glass, and metal buttons, and other vintage sewing supplies [There's also a Timeless Stitches which sets up at WCWA events; these do not appear to be related]  
• Pendleton Woolen Mill Outlet (Portland), carries wools
• The Annual Sewing and Stitchery Expo has all manner of material and notions; best bet for laces and trims
• Fremont Sunday Market: flea-market vendors occasionally carry usable vintage buttons
• Hardwick's (in the U-district) has size 00 grommets and setting tools, and bolt cutters for your hoop-steel-cutting needs. 

This is getting a bit long, so the next installment will include resources for non-sewers.