Saturday, October 24, 2015

Civilian Winter Clothes

The Illustrated London News, Jan 1, 1859
Inspired by Anna Bauersmith's article on seasonal layers, here are project links for warm and winter clothes.  Most are 1859-65, but there are a few earlier ones as well, so check the date when determining if a project suits your impression.

Liz Clark's essays on Dressing Children and Infants for Cold Weather are also highly recommended.






Women's Items
Red Riding Hood, page 79, Peterson's (1862)
Tufted Hood* from Liz Clark
Mrs. Meister's Hood Pattern* (the shape is more 1850s)
Opera Hood (knit), page 122,  Godey's (1862)
Opera Hood (knit), page 378, picture 322, Peterson's (1865)
Norwegian Morning or Bonnet Cap, page 111, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)
Neapolitan Opera Hood, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Quilted Silk Hood, page 359-60,  Peterson's (1859)
Princess Capote, page 415, pic 359, Peterson's (1862) [New research by AWB suggests this may be a summer seaside garment.].
Capeline or Hood, page 287, Godey's (1862)
Algerian Knitted Opera Hood, page 284-5, New Peterson's Magazine (1865)
Knitted Opera or Travelling Hood Trimmed with Swansdown, page 599, 540 (illustrated), Godey's (1862)

Eugenie Collar from Mlle. Riego's Crochet Winter Book (1857)
Knitted Collar, page 171, picture page 115, Peterson's (1862)
Shetland Cravat, page 69-70, Peterson's (1865)
Ermine (knit) Tie and Cuffs, page 31-2, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Lady's Croquet Cuff and Cravate, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
The Eyder Necktie, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Wool Scarf in Crochet (page 312, illustrated 264) Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine (1860)
Braided scarf, with Mrs. Mescher's modern instructions.

Winter Cloak, page 74-75,  Peterson's (1859)
Crochet CapeThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Cloaks, general instructions, How to Do It: Or, Directions for Knowing and Doing Everything Needful (1864)
Winter Mantle or Sortie-De-Bal, in Crochet page 549, Godey's (1858)
Fall Paletote, illustration page 452, diagram 454, Godey's (1859)
Round Jacket for a Lady (knit), page 331-333, Peterson's (1856)
Polka Jacket in Crochet, page 168-169, Peterson's (1856)

Knitted Winter Spencer, page 53-4, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)
Sontag, and Mrs. Mescher's modern translation of it.
Knitted Sontag, page 412-413, Peterson's (1862)
Loose Waistcoat or BodiceThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Habit Shirt or Bodice in Crochet a TricoterThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Under Spencer or JacketThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Chest PreserverThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Knitted Jacket, page 277, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864)
(Also in the Illustrated London Magazine for 1864)
Lady's Under-Vest, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Spanish Jacket, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Winter Jacket in Double Crochet, pages 290-292, Peterson's (1864)
Fall and Winter Jacket, page 444-445, New Peterson Magazine (1865)
Nubia (shawl) with Mrs. Mescher's modern instructions.
Knitted Shawl in Colors, page 419, picture page , Peterson's (1862)
Plaid Shawl, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Biarritz Shawl, page 186, Godey's (1862)

Knitted Undersleeve, from Godey's (1862), page 465
Knitted SleeveThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)

Eugenie Machettes and Lady's Gauntlet Mitts from Mlle. Riego's Crochet Winter Book (1857)
Knitted Gauntlet, from The Lady's Companion (1865), page 55
Instructions for Knitted Mittens and Cuffs: "Another Pair of Lady's Mittens" from Godey's (1862), page 284-5
A New Stitch for Cuffs (crochet), page 187, Godey's, 1862

Knitted Under-Petticoat, from The Lady's Companion (1865), page 166
Knit Drawers, page 174-5, Peterson's (1862)

Crochet Dressing Slipper, page 446, Peterson's (1865)
Knitted Gaiter, page 335, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864)
(Also in the Illustrated London Magazine for 1864)
Furred Winter Shoe, page 358-9,  Peterson's (1859)

Children's Items

Tufted Hood* from Liz Clark
Mrs. Meister's Hood Pattern* (the shape is more 1850s than 1860s)
Boy's Winter Hat in Knitting (page 312, illustrated 264) Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine (1860)
Garden Hood for a Little Girl (knit), page 162-3, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)

Instructions for Knitted Mittens and Cuffs: "Knitted Mittens" for a girl 2-3 years old; from Godey's (1862), page 389
Instructions for Knitted Mittens, for girls 8-10, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)
Child's Muff in Imitation of Chincilla (knit), page 310, Peterson's (1865)

Infant's Shirt (knit), page 412, Peterson's (1862)

Baby's Sock in Crochet, page 413, Peterson's (1862)
Baby's Sock, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
A Little Girl's Stocking, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Boy's Knickerbocker Stocking (ages 5-6), Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Child's Sock (2 patterns)How to Knit Socks (1863)

Crochet Gaiters from Mlle. Riego's Crochet Winter Book (1857)
Child's Warm Shoe in Crochet, page 163, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864) (Also in the Illustrated London Magazine for 1864)
Crochet Boots for an Infant, page 222, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864)
Baby's Boot in Knitting and Crochet, page 122, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Baby's Boot (quilted/wadded), page 410, Godey's (1862)
Child's Gaiter, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)

Men's Items

Knitted WaistcoatThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Gentleman's Comforter, page 56, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Gentleman's Knit Stockings, page 58-9, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Gentleman's Knickerbocker Stocking in ribbed knitting, The Useful Knitting Book (1864)

Knit Knee Warmer, Godey's, 1862
For Everyone:

Basic Wool Shawl*
Two Knitted Comforters (scarves)The Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)

Mrs. Mescher's Muffatees*
Directions to Knit Mittens, page 92, Peterson's (1862)
To Knit a Mitten With One Finger, page 176, Peterson's (1862)
Knitted Mitten and a Very Easy MittenThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Knitted GloveThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Two Muffatee PatternsThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)

Knit StockingThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Knitted Knee Cap (?!?!), page 445, Peterson's (1865)
Socks (2-3 patterns)How to Knit Socks (1863)
Knee Caps, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)

General Knitting Help in Period Sources
The 1862 run of Godey's, includes an explanation of pattern terms on pages 84-85.
The Illustrated Girl's Own Treasury (1861) includes knitting instructions and pattern abbreviations.
Peterson's (also in 1862) includes a variety of new knit stitches to adapt for one own's projects.

*Asterisked projects are modern instructions based on extent period pieces.  The projects not so marked are either period instructions, or modern explanations of period instructions.