Sunday, August 30, 2015

Event: Snoqualmie Reenactment

Ominous clouds threaten the idyllic Union camp...
Where to begin?  Since last year, member of our club have anticipated the new Snoqualmie event (organized by our near neighbors, the 20th Maine), situated at Meadowbrook Farm Park, just below Mt. Si.  The setting, it is agreed, was not only conveniently close for travel, but also to the amenities of town, while the multitudinous trees added to site's pastoral beauty and concealed modern development.

Event preparations on Friday started out encouragingly enough; all of our tents were erected under clear skies and with good spirits, no petty annoyance beyond that of thistles and sun-burn.  Young Messrs. Franks, Franks, and Walker in particular showed great enthusiasm in setting the camp to right.  A light ran through the night and into Saturday morning barely dampened spirits, though the weather cleared in time for the late morning battle.

Unfortunately, the wind, heretofore causing some minor amusement and moderate concern in lifting hats and tipping over the portable necessaries, decided to intervene more strongly.  Around 12:30, a  "micro-burst" flattened portions of the Union camp; starting at the edge of Brigade Command, it tore through the 2nd US Sharpshooters' and 4th US Infantry's command tents, the kitchen flies of the 4th and the 20th Maine Volunteers, and then down through the company streets of the Maine and Wisconsin units.  

Within the affected area, tents were ripped from their stakes, wooden uprights snapped, and items of furniture flew through the air.  The writer personally observed a wooden table-top fly through the air at a height of 20ft or more.   

Fortunately, many inhabitants were out of camp, attending the memorial service for Confederate Col. LeCocq; consequently, few injuries were reported, and none of those serious.  The 4th in particular owes thanks the 2nd US Sharpshooters, who rushed to aid our members when the kitchen fly fell on them.  The Company flag had been safely stowed prior to the event, else it likely would have joined Capt. Jones' tent in its aerial exploits.

Union Command, as view from Co. C's street, during the clean-up effort.
Cleaning up the company streets.
To avoid a repeat occurrence, Union command opted to close camp after the Saturday afternoon battle.  During the remainder of the afternoon, the weather alternated between fair and rainy, with no further wind-borne hazards.

Additional coverage of the reenactment itself, with better quality pictures are available at the Seattle Times.
Members of the 4th keep their spirits up during clean-up.
Clearing muskets after the battle.


Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Hair Styling 101, 102, 103...

Arthur's Home Magazine, June '64
"As to the different ways of dressing the hair, it is impossible to describe a hundredth part of their number; we can only refer our readers to the fashionable coiffures and the fashion-plates. "
-Le Follet, 1863

To aid in that task, here are some picture tutorials for basic early '60s hair-dressing.  Hopefully, they'll help you see how some of the coiffures go together, and get started on a style or styles that suits.  Several of the ladies had a hair-styling party at the June drill/meeting, and this seems to be a topic upon which we can all help eachother out.  Perhaps with some collaborative hair-dressing at Snoqualmie and Fort Worden?

(Re-posted from the blog-mistress's personal blog):

Basics of 1850s-1860s hair
Tools and Decorations
1860: Braids upon Braids
1862: Braids & Rolls
Simplified Early '60s Side Braids
Waterfall, c.1864-7

Monday, August 17, 2015

Hats for Men and Women

Gents first, because I neglect their interests so very much on this blog.

The top hat, according to my sources (ie, the VAM item-type notes), is popular throughout the nineteenth century.  The shape gets tweaked over the decades, but the general form stays consistent. Early on, they are made of fur felt--some from mixed fur, the most expensive from the soft underfur of beavers--but wool felts are also eventually available.  By the 1850s, silk plush is supplanting beaver as the fashionable material.  While black is a popular color, and always correct, top hats may also be found in other neutral shades, even in natural-colored straw for summer wear.
Silk plush top hat, c. 1850-70
Wool top hat, 1860s
Straw top hat, c. 1840-60
The top hat is used at all levels of society, from the highest to the lowest, but other varieties of hat such as the boater and derby (no true bowlers, just yet) as also available.
Straw boater hat, c. 1860-79
Wool derby hat, c. 1865
This beaver hat from Harrod's resembles British naval officers' hats from the beginning of the century.  The UK National trust has a number of similar articles, labelled as "cocked", "bicorne", "uniform", "military" and "opera" hats, suggesting some cross-over between military and civilian styles.
Beaver Hat, c. 1850
And there are some styles to which I can't put a name.
Straw Hat, c. 1850-60
A variety of caps are available to men and boys; these are typically less formal than the structured hats, and may be intended for specific activities or for general wear.  Caps are made of different fabrics (wool, linen, silk) and/or leather, possibly with cardboard or other stiffeners.
Boy's "peaked cap of brown leather", 1856
Peak Cap, c. 1840-90
Boy's cap, velvet, 1840-50
Scottish Cap or "Scotch Bonnet", pre-1867
Cap, 1861-5
(The above cap is labelled as "American".  Is it perhaps an army cap?)
"Mechanic's" style cap, c. 1862
Hunting Cap, British, 1850
Cap, c. 1850-60
For a gentleman of leisure, smoking caps might be worn informally at home.  They are typically made by close relatives or friends as a token of esteem; patterns for embroidered or braidwork-embellished caps and slippers are very common in ladies' magazines and fancy sewing-books.
Embroidered Smoking Cap, 1866
Smoking cap with braidwork, c. 1860
Military styles, of course, have their own intricacies, which I am not equipped to handle. Here are a few different styles of American hats which I've come across (there are also some cool British ones in the UK National Trust collections).
American Military Hat, c. 1860-4
1858 Officer's "Hardee" Hat, worn at 1st Manassas/Bull Run
Slouch Hat, Confederate
Militia Cap
Forage Cap, 1861
Confederate Naval Cap

And for ladies' hats*...

In the vast majority of personas and situations, the proper headgear for a woman is a bonnet.  Bonnets may be worn to formal, informal, somber, joyous, public, and private events across the social classes. Fashion bonnets of buckram, straw or horsehair can be worn to picnics, social calls, weddings, school, church, assemblies, lectures, debates, plays, shops, government buildings, funerals, and even to work.  A cloth sunbonnet may be worn to the above, but also for walks in the country, farm labor, gardening, dirty chores, or any circumstance in which one needs free hands and the sun out of one's eyes.  Warm quilted or tufted hoods keep the head warm in the winter; lighter "opera" hoods protect the hair when travelling to formal evening functions.

Hats are a slightly different matter.  They are decidedly out-of-fashion in the early 1850s (according to Miss Leslie, at least), but straw "gipsy" hats may be made at home for rural work in the sun.  This practical item is also adopted for gardening.  Moving towards the 1860s, hats become popular for children's wear, and begin to show up for informal outdoor use among well-dressed young women. Picnics, croquet, and seaside excursions offer opportunities for fashionable hats, particularly ones of light, airy straw.  Some other varieties also appear, but like most fashion fads, they tend to be confined to the young, rich and trendy (the first two being more negotiable than the third).  Reserve these garments for informal, high-fashion wear.
Straw hat, 1864-9
Straw hat, 1860s

Straw hat, c. 1850-70
Straw hat, 1863-5
Hat with veil, c. 1865-75
Silk hat, c. 1864
Silk/wool hat, c. 1863-5
Though more popular for young boys, the "Glengarry" shape sometimes appears in young women's high-fashion attire of the '60s.
Glengarry cap, 1850-69

Equestriennes may adopt a top hat for riding.
Riding hat, c. 1865
Excepting the sole large-brimmed example and the riding top hat, most of the ladies' hats one finds have short, shaped brims and relatively low crowns.  Like bonnets, they may be decorated with bands, bows, feathers and flowers; some have short veils over the eyes, and/or trailing ribbons behind. 

Women's bonnets and caps will be handled in future posts, due to the scope of the material.

*In the period, terms like "cap", "bonnet" and "hat" can get tossed around rather willy-nilly to refer to various head coverings, or just head-coverings in general. I'll be using "hat" to mean "a head covering with a crown worn generally over the crown of the head, and a brim on all sides", "bonnet" to refer to articles with perpendicular crowns and brims only partway around, and "cap" and "hood" to refer to softer, less structured articles. 

Sunday, August 16, 2015

Event: Snoqualmie Railroad Days/ Echoes of Blue and Grey

This was one busy weekend for the 4th.  Highly-placed sources indicate that members of our club constituted a large portion of the Union presence at Evergreen Cemetery's "Echoes of Blue and Grey" on Saturday.

Meanwhile, Recruiting Sergeant Hicks and the excellent Miss Dorries represented the 4th and the WCWA at Snoqualmie's Railroad Days, spreading about the upcoming "Battle for Snoqualmie".  Today, Capt. Jones, Corporal Van Hoek, and Mr. Van Hoek joined members of the 20th Maine to continue the effort. Our union lads demonstrated their marching--which, we understand, is a very useful skill for the infantry--and a first-place presenter ribbon appeared on the group's canvas shelter. The evident esteem of the citizens of Snoqualmie bodes well for attendance at the reenactment in two weeks.

Mr. Van Hoek and Captain Jones, with the coveted blue ribbon
The 20th Maine's fly had an excellent view of the historic trains in action.
The blogmistress enjoyed viewing Snoqualmie Falls by rail.

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Printed Fabrics of the early 1860s

A reproduced 1860s print.
Here are some more eye-training resources, this time for period textiles.  Learn the aesthetics of the time, and your options for reproduction textiles multiply!

Among the many books written on Victorian fabrics, these four are my favorites:

Eileen Trestain's  Dating Fabrics, A Color Guide 1800-1960 is probably the most concise and easy-to-use reference.  It's also among the least expensive and most portable. (See here for a longer review.) 

Barbara Brackman's America's Printed Fabrics, 1770-1890 has fewer examples, but is also easy to procure and use, and has additional information about period quilting. (Complete review.) Ms. Brackman's blog also discusses historic fabric and quilts.

The single most informative book I've found is Meller and Elffer's Textile Designs: Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns Organized by Motif, Style, Color, Layout, and Period. It is literally hundreds of pages of fabric designs. (Complete review.)  

Florence Montgomery's Textiles in America 1650-1870 is an exhaustive reference of fabrics for furnishing as well as apparel. It features fewer examples of printed designs that Meller/Elffer, but has a lot of information about woven patterns, fibers, and different types of fabric. (Complete review.)

Although I've not had a chance to read it, Wearable Prints 1760-1860 comes highly recommended.

There are also a number of on-line references, less well-curated that the published sources, but still useful.  Googling "Fabric Swatch Book 1860", or 1850, gives any number of hits.  Close-ups of original garments also show the fabric's pattern (for ideas, here are some museum on-line collections).

Val from Time Travelling in Costume has a nice introductory post, featuring original swatch books and garments.  Trouvais also has some sample books, though not all are from the 1860s.

A booklet for Printed Textile Identification is provided by the British Dress and Textile Specialists (they also have some other useful free guides, including fiber and lace identification).

One can also browse Reproduction Fabrics for ideas: the year ranges can be a bit broad, but the fabrics are all available to purchase, no further searching required.  Additionally, the proprietress has posted two of her original fabric swatch books on-line, and also blogs about nineteenth century textile printing technology.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Beginning First Person Interpretation

For those interested in trying it out, a few thoughts on first person living history:


First person interpretation is pretending to be a person from the past—and not alluding to the fact that you are a twenty-first century person in funny clothes talking about the past.

We call it "first person" because you are using the grammatical first person ("I/me/my, we/us/our") to convey your information. For example:

First person: "I fear prices will keep rising as long as the blockade lasts."
"We are making a quilt for the hospital."

Second person: "If you lived here in 1855, you'd be sharing this one room with all of your siblings."

Third person: "He wrote most of his letters at this desk."
"The soldiers often complained of inadequate rations."
"They didn't have electricity."

In first person, the speaker is placing himself or herself in the past. In second, the person being spoken to is placed in the past. In third person, the person(s) being spoken about is(are) placed in the past.

How to do it

In short, start using "I" statements. Everything you already know and share about the period is still relevant—you're merely changing how you present the information.

There are two main groups of people you'll interact with in first person: other reenactors (in first person), and the public (people not in first person).  Most of the techniques are relevant to both, though the later group in particular may need some prompting to understand that you are from the past--in first person rather than in third.  You'll also get the occasional corny attempt at humor ("Where's the TV?"; Waves cell phone--"Have you ever seen one of these?"); I prefer to handle these with a polite smile, "I am unfamiliar with that term", and getting back on topic.

It's fun to do first-person with other reenactors, and you don't need to plan out elaborate scenarios and scripts. At the bare minimum, all you need to have worked out is that you're in the same place—knowing where and when you are.

When are you? Where are you? 
Some events make this clear in advance: the event and everyone at it is in Gettyburg, PA July 1-3, 1863, for example. Others events are less well-defined, in which case you need to either work out your location/date or avoid using specific (time-sensitive) details that might not fit. Discussing the upcoming presidential election is an excellent topic for the summer of 1864, but makes less sense if your conversation partner thinks its the spring of 1861 and was just about to bring up their thoughts on the recently-past election. Complaining about blockade-caused shortages as a Georgian in 1863 is great...that is, if you're not talking to a northern shop-keeper who's noticed no such hardships, or to your southern neighbor of '61, who's still anticipating a quick war after First Manassas.

Dropping the year into your conversation can also help orient the public to your first-person conversation.  Ie, "Look at our new cook stove. Poor Thornhill was actually cooking over an open hearth until it arrived last year--imagine cooking on a hearth in 1854! But then, with the expense of shipping it around Cape Horn, we're quite lucky to have it at all."

Who are you?
Unless you're at a planned event where you share a backstory with other people--who are portraying your close friends, family and neighbors--this sort of background information is largely for your own benefit. It's both very important (your persona's social, political and geographical background informs everything you say/think/do in character), and not very important (unless you bring it up, no one will ever ask about your character's childhood home, or deceased relatives, or favorite food). To start, work out the very basic concepts such as your name, your relationships to other people present at the event (if any), and what you're doing there. You can build a more elaborate persona as you feel comfortable with it.

Introduce yourself!
Use a period form of introduction to do so, and you're already in first person.
(I've put forms of introduction and address in a separate post).

Keep Talking, Keep Trying
Venture an opinion: on the weather, on the shop-keeper's prices, on that bonnet you saw in Godey's, on the President's recent proclamation, on the war, on a patent medicine you tried. Ask a question, How's your health? Where's a good place to buy shoes? Have you seen my husband pass this way? What do you think of the military occupation/weather/recent political event/lastest fashion fad? Have you seen the latest edition of Harper's? Tell an amusing anecdote. Offer advice. Anticipate a coming event: the ball tonight, the end of the war, your sweetheart's next letter. Discuss your day/the children/that new Dickens novel you're reading. Attempt to recruit your conversation partner into some future project: planning a charity ball, supporting a political candidate, investing in your land speculation scheme.

I find first-person opportunities provide excellent fodder for your next first-person encounter: discussing the last ball over dinner, or recounting the time that the maid tripped and invented "flying aspic".  If you interact with the same people, you'll also start to develop shared stories and backgrounds which can be referenced on future occasions.

Period literature can make a pleasant topic of discussion. Incidents and opinions found in period diaries, letters, and travelogues can also be adapted for personal use: for example, one lady at Nisqually last year portrayed a character who had crossed Panama by mule, and regaled us with stories of the trip. Avoid taking well-known incidents and putting yourself into them—unless you actually are portraying one of the Pinkerton agents who thwarted the first assassination attempt against Lincoln (or whatever the particular situation is).

Do Something/ Start Conversations
This applies to in-character interactions as well, but it's vital to conversations with the "public". Visitors don't always know that you're in character, and might not know how to approach you. even if they do.  Doing something provides one way to break the ice—the public can ask questions about it, or you can greet them and volunteer information about your activity.

This is also great for you, as it focuses the sort of questions you'll be getting. Even if you don't feel like you know everything a person from you period would know, you can research a narrow topic until you feel comfortable with it (most people aren't looking for a dissertation). So, read up on period laundry methods if you're washing clothes. Consider where you bought/procured the food you're cooking with. Know who you're writing that letter to, and be able to name the equipment you're using to write it.  Someone who sees you cooking is more likely to ask you a question or two about your menu/tools/where you acquired your ingredients--ie, the questions you're prepared for--than to grill you for minutiae on politics, or transportation, or fashion.  

Then, when a visitor comes up to you, start talking to them. I like to start with a "good morning", or "good afternoon" ("hello" seems to be uncommon in 1860s, and "hi" is right out). The visitor will often ask when I'm making/doing, and I can explain that I'm tatting/rolling gingerbread/sewing a skirt. If they don't ask another question, I can offer a few more details (tatting is a sort of lace-making; I'm using it to make a decorative trim for a chemise, which is a sort of undershirt that keeps my other clothing nice). Eventually, the visitor will either start helping carry the conversation, or they will take their leave. Either way, you've just taught them something. And you did it in first person!

Admit That You Don't Know
This where I most often end up breaking character. Someone asks a question, and you don't know the answer. The cardinal rule of living history and museum interpretation is do not make it up.* So, don't. Own up to your ignorance. Offer what relevant information you do have. If it's something that can be handled in character, great—after all, there are things your character wouldn't know. If that's not the case, ie, the question is one that your character should be able to answer, then you need make it clear that you're breaking character when you say no. And later, you can try to find the correct answer for next time.

Some ways to answer in character:

"I've no idea what the clerks are paid, but it's surely more than I earn picking potatoes. Are you looking for a position?"

"My maid handles the laundry. I don't know how she gets those ink spots out, but my undersleeves always come back neat and clean. Nevertheless, I've started wearing sleeve protectors when handling a large correspondence."

"How old's the wheat? Well, I planted it late spring, and it's ready to harvest now, and that's my main concern." [If the questioner persists in asking about the dates for the wheat variety, I'd break character to say that I don't know.]

To gracefully demur: "Actually, I don't know how much the seasonal workers were paid, but we're continuing to research the topic.  I do know that servants in this area earned around $X per month, and expect that unskilled labor was paid at a similar level."

Keep Learning
The more you know, the more... Questions you can answer. Conversations you can enjoy. Interesting scenarios you can devise. Different personas you can try.

The more accurately you can present the past to others.

Some resources for developing more advanced personas and research:
Resources from the Atlantic Guard Soldiers' Aid Society
Linda Trent's "Creating Believable and Sustainable Characters"
First Person Character Worksheet
Discussion: Staying in First Person
In the Right Mind part I
In the Right Mind part II

To Re-Cap

First person interpretation is pretending to be someone from the past—using "I" and "we" in your conversations.

When doing first person with other reenactors:
  1. Know who, where and when you are
  2. Introduce yourself
  3. Keep trying
  4. Continue to learn

When doing first person interactions with the public:
  1. Know who, where and when you are
  2. Do something
  3. Start conversations
  4. Admit when you don't know the answer (stay in character if you can)
  5. Continue to learn

*To clarify, yes, you are lying: first person is a mutually-agreed-upon-fantasy, in which everyone knows that you were not actually born in 18XX, but both you and the visitors are pretending otherwise. All liberties need to be confined to this 'mutual fantasy' dressing and not get mixed into the history itself. We're here to educate, and inventing 'facts' does a disservice to everyone (including future generations of interpreters who get to keep disabusing returning visitors and their grandchildren of stories—that have no basis in fact—invented by previous living historians). The public is are trusting you to tell them what the past was like, and are granting you license in the presentation. So, go ahead and relate the funny privy story you read (in a period source) as though it happened to you, or use your own experience with the horsehair sofa as a warning about sitting carefully (happened while using period items in the prescribed way), but don't invent something out of wholecloth and pass it off as history.

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Shoes c. 1860-65

Here's some visual references for shoes and boots of the early 1860s.  These are mostly civilian examples, but there's some (er, one) military as well.

Let's start with the ladies.  Ankle-high boots or "gaiters" are very popular in this period.  The may be fastened up the front with laces, or up the side with laces, elastic gussets ("congress gaiters"), or buttons. Non-functional buttons may also be present on a slip-on elastic boot; I've seen no examples of laced shoes with decorative buttons.  Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker (1856) recommends the front lacing style for those who wear their shoes out unevenly--the shoes may be made on a 'straight last' with no left or right, and then can be worn on either foot, prolonging the wearing life of the shoe.

Ladies' boots featured in Der Bazaar, 1862
Leather shoe, c. 1860-79, from The Met
Embroidered (wool on canvas) boots with elastic gusset, c.1845-65, VAM
Satin boots, c. 1850, VAM, (There's a very similar pair in black, too)
Women's leather/elastic boots, c. 1860s, VAM
Leather boots with contrasting "foxing" or "toe cap", 1850s, from the VAM
Silk boots c.1860s-1870, from The Victoria and Albert Museum
The tall boots often called "Victorian" are primarily from later in the 19th century (or even the 20th). Still, there are mid-century examples of ladies' boots of which rise somewhat above the ankle-not all the way up the calf, but above the ankle.

Wool boots, c. 1865-75, from The Met
Wedding shoes, likely of silk, 1865, from The Met
Wool boots, 1860-69, from The Met
Lower styles are also worn, particularly for in-home and formal wear (though boots may also be used for these occasions-consider those lovely silk ones above).  The prevailing shoe fashion frequently has open tops (ala "slippers"/ "ballet flats"), low or no heel, and rounded, square or shallow pointed toes--none of those extreme modern, angled points.  The shoes may be slip-on, or have straps across the ankle, or ties that criss-cross.

Ladies' shoes from Der Bazaar, 1862
Leather slippers, c. 1845-65, from The Met
Leather shoes, 1866, from The Met
Silk evening slippers, 1855-65, from The Met
Silk satin shoes, c. 1855-65, from VAM
Materials include silk, leather, and wool for the uppers, with leather soles.  The originals I've looked at had silk uppers with linen or cotton linings underneath.  Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker mentions that a wide variety of materials may be used--with linings under the lighter weights and leather foxing to extend the wearing life--particularly that left-over dress fabric be employed to make matching shoes.

For a whimsical finish, here are a pair of velvet and rabbit fur carriage shoes (warm shoes to wear while travelling), with quilted silk for extra warmth:
Lady's Carriage Boots, c. 1850s, VAM

And now for the gents (thank you for your patience!)  I'm afraid that examples of men's shoes a little harder to find by my usual methods. They are out there, however, such as these leather brogans which were reportedly worn by a POW returning home after the Civil War.
Men's brogans, c. 1860-65, from The Met
In civilian-land, both shoes and boots are available: leather is a popular material, but fabric may also be used (such as the cotton velvet referenced in this story).  As with women's shoes, fabric uppers may be protected by leather toe caps or foxing. 

Consider these "opera boots" for formal-wear:
Opera boots, 1840s, from the VAM
Top boots are apparently useful for riding, walking, and general wear:
Men's Top Boots, 1840s, VAM
There are also shorter boots available, such as these eye-catching snake skin and patent leather ones:
Men's short boots (leather/snake skin), c. 1851, from VAM


Children's shoes end up looking like tiny versions of mom's shoes, noting that the ankle-strap is very common on open-top shoes.  Silk, cloth, leather, and velvet are among the materials used.
Silk baby bootees with tatted decoration, early 19th century, VAM
Infant shoes, c. 1860, from The Met

Leather shoes (about a modern toddler size 10), c.1850-69, from The Met
Children's shoes, c. 1851, cloth and patent leather, from the VAM
Children's shoes, c. 1851, velvet and patent leather, from the VAM