Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Corsets

Continuing the profiles of women's undergarments: the much-maligned corset or stays.  Both terms appear interchangeably in the period--with "stays" more common than "corset" in the preceding decades, as far as I can tell--though modern usage is more likely to style a steel-boned article as a "corset" and a corded one as "stays".
Corset, c. 1861-3
This example is shaped with curved pieces seamed together.
Corsets are widely used for women's and children's clothes of the 1860s; some men wear a similar garment dubbed a "belt".  Worn over the chemise (and possibly the drawers), the corset acts as a foundation for the other garments: it distributes the weight of petticoats and dress over the the entire torso, while simultaneously smoothing the line of the upper body and supporting the bust.  The closely-fit dresses of the 1860s tend to wrinkle and look unkempt when worn without a corset.  A corset also provides great back support for the working woman.
Corset, c. 1860
The three studs belong to a separating metal busk, which allows 
the corset to be taken on and off without fully unlacing the back.
At it's most basic, a corset is a tightly-fitted under-bodice; gores (triangular inserts) or curved seams allow the shape of the garment to follow the figure. Steel or whalebone "stays" or "bones" (examples here) keep the fabric smooth; this may also be accomplished by closely-set cords quilted into the garment. The fabric used in corsets needs to be tightly-woven and have little stretch.  A solid wood or separating metal busk supports the center-front of most corsets.  Whether it opens at the front or has a solid panel there, the corsets of the 1850s/60s almost universally lace up the back.  This does not make them "one size fits all"--rather, it is what allows the garment to be fastened sufficiently snug.  A "spring" or gap of several inches between the back edges is desirable, so that the corset is not too loose.  A very large gap is less supportive of the back.
Corset, 1840s
This corset has the shoulder straps, solid busk, and long line
of the early 1800s.  By the 1860s, shorter corsets are more common.
Stays from The Workwoman's Guide, 1838/40
Like the above, they are shaped with triangular gores over the
bust and hip, and have a solid center busk and shoulder straps. 
Pattern pieces from Godey's (1857).  Now without shoulder straps,
these stays are still shaped with gores at the bust, hip, and stomach.
The stays open in the front with a steel busk. An identical pattern 
appeared in Peterson's two years before.
The "Corset de Medici", Peterson's1855
Gored "French Corset" from Godey's, 1862
"Victoria Corset", Godey's, 1862
Gored Corset from Der Bazar, 1865
Curved seam corset with separate hip pieces.
Patented by Lavinia H. Foy, 1868.
This probably the time to mention that Gone with the Wind is post-period fiction, and that tight-lacing corsets is 1) universally condemned, and 2) going out of fashion by the 1860s.  Medical texts blame it for everything from scoliosis to consumption to deformed ribs to miscarriage.  This 1863 book gives the average waist measurement as 27"-29", contrasted with that of tight-lacers (23" or even 21")--earlier, in 1845, a similar article gave the same "normal" measure of 27"-29", but claimed that most women laced down to 24", and some even to 20".  As for fashion:
A very small waist is rather a deformity than a beauty. To see the shoulders cramped and squeezed together, is anything but agreeable; the figure should be easy, well developed, supple: if Nature has not made the waist small, compression cannot mend her work. Dress may do much to lessen the awkward appearance of a thick waist by clever adaptations; by the use of stays both easy and well fitting; by a little extra trimming on the shoulders which naturally makes the waist appear smaller. All this may be done without injury; no stays can answer the purpose so well as those made by a good French stay-maker, who has the art of taking a sort of model of the figure by the extreme exactness of her measurements." --The Habits of Good Society, 1859/1863
Another text gives ideal "proportions" (scaled from the Venus di Medicis):
...therefore, the waist of a person five feet three inches high should not be less than twenty-five and a quarter inches; of five feet five inches, twenty-six inches; of five feet seven inches, twenty-six and three quarter inches; of five feet eight inches, twenty seven and a quarter inches. --Medical Common Sense (1863) 
It concludes that "a very small waist is a defect rather than a beauty, and nothing can be truly beautiful which is out of proportion."

Thursday, December 24, 2015

The Christmas Tree

Godey's, 1855
DRESSING THE CHRISTMAS TREE IN GERMANY   
This is performed with great ceremony and mystery, on Christmas Eve, by the elders of the family without the knowledge of the younger members. They deck a large evergreen with presents of various kinds: to toys, bonbons, and such trifles, are added things of more value and use--working materials for the girls, knives, &c. for the boys, and books of amusement and instruction for both. Little tapers are attached to the branches of the shrub; and at break of day the children are roused from their slumber, and when all are ready (for no one is allowed to enter singly) they are admitted into the room where the illuminated tree greets their eyes. Great is the anxiety of the young party to see who has been provided for, since the idea they are taught to entertain is, that these tempting objects are bestowed by an invisible agent, as a reward for good children, and that the naughty and ill-conducted will find no share allotted to them...
--The Mirror of Literature (1831)

Monday, December 21, 2015

Drawers

"...those comfortable garments we have borrowed from the other sex, and which we all wear, and none of us talk about."
-The Welcome Guest, 1860

Drawers, from Der Bazar 1865
Drawers may be worn under or over the chemise, per personal preference (based on modern experience--still working on period references for adults).  They're becoming popular by the 1860s, correlating with the widespread adoption of hoopskirts.  Instructions for making and embellishing drawers show up in ladies' magazines.  Like chemises, these undergarments are commonly made of white cotton or linen which is easily washed and cheaply replaced.  Trims are likewise sturdy and washable: self-fabric tucks, whitework embroidery, or strong lace.  Flannel drawers are an option for cold weather (that's wool flannel).

The Workwoman's Guide (1838) describes women's drawers as "two separate legs sewn into a band, which is made to button before or behind, at pleasure". Drawers fit loosely, and may fasten at the front or back, with buttons, tapes, or drawstrings.  For adult women, the center seam is left open--the loose fabric covers everything, while allowing one to use the necessary without removing many layers of clothing. Those unconvinced should read Mrs. Clark's cautionary tale.
Linen drawers with self-fabric tucks, ruffle,
and small lace edge. 1860s
Cotton drawers with whitework. 1850s
Children's drawers may have a closed center seam, and fasten over both hips.
Peterson's 1858: pattern for child's drawers
Wool drawers with braidwork hem.  Though intended
for a girl age 7-9, they have an open center seam and
back tie.  The front button hole may be used to fasten
the drawers to a pair of stays.
A note on terminology:

In reenactment circles, one may hear drawers called  "bloomers", "pantaloons", "pantalets", etc. Here's what I've been able to uncover of period terms and definitions:

The Dictionary of the English Language by A. J. Cooley (1861) defines pantalets as "loose drawers worn by females and children", drawers as "a kind of light under-breeches", and pantaloon as " garment embr[acing] breeches and stockings in one piece; an old man or buffon dressed in pantaloons, one of the ch. characters in pantomines; a kind of trousers fitting closely about the ankles."

Drawers: A bifurcated undergarment, worn by men, women, and children with some differences of cut.  They are usually made of washable white cotton or linen, with warmer versions are of red or white wool flannel.  When worn by children in short dresses, the lower edge may sometimes be visible (as with pantalets).
"Ladies and gentlemen wear drawers, now, at all seasons; very thin ones in summer and thicker, or woolen over linen or cotton in winter. Ladies wear them for protection from dust, and to avoid accidental exposures; while gentlemen require them to protect their outer clothing from perspiration, and their skins from the roughness of kerseymere." --The Illustrated Manners Book, 1855

Pantalets/Pantalettes: Long, white cotton (or linen) pants or leggings with decorative bottom edges that cover the leg below the skirt hem, and are meant to be visible.  In the 1830s, these are ubiquitous for children's wear; even so, except for two school uniform references in 1838, I've seen no mention of girls over 12 wearing them, and only the occasional derogatory remark to suggest adults wearing pantalets (such as this 1842 reference to an older woman making herself ridiculous while attempting to look young). An 1845 story mentions "that [dress] in which I first felt myself a woman--that is, when I first discarded pantalettes".  Of the five mentions of "pantalettes"in Arthur's Home Magazine (1857), two are specifically for a "small girl", two for a 10-year-old, and one for a boy still in dressesNumerous sources in the 1860s use "pantalets" as a shorthand for childhood.
Pantalets, 1850-55. 
Pantalets, c. 1838
Visible pantalets seem more common in the 1830s/40s than in the 1860s.  In these family portraits, for instance, the Bellelli girls (c. 1860) wear skirts short enough to show their calves, with no pantalets. Fifteen to twenty years earlier, the Thompson girls all have ankle-length white pantalets under their short skirts.
The Bellelli Family by E. Degas, c.1858-62
Lewis G. Thompson Family by H. Rockwell, c. 1842-5
Pantaloons: Sometimes confused with pantalets in the period.  As noted above, a breech/stocking combination which has become stereotypical by the mid-19th century.  Also, close-fitting trousers. The word from which "pants" is a derived.

Trousers/Trowsers: Outer garment covering the lower limbs from "the waist to the knee or the ankle" (The Imperial Dictionary, 1861); universally worn by men and by boys over the approximate age of five.  Adopted by some female "dress reform" advocates in conjunction with a shortened skirt. On page 53, The Workwoman's Guide (1838) uses "trousers" to describe the leg portion of garment comprising drawers and a "body" (bodice). It also features a girls' "Turkish Trouser" pattern which seems to be full pantalets gathered at the ankle.
"Skirt of black velvet, sufficient short to
show the edges of the worked trousers."
Frank Leslie's New York Journal (1857)
Bloomer:  A derisive name for dress reform advocates or women perceived as unfeminine.  The "bloomer costume" (also known as "reform dress" or the "American costume") is the dress reformers' new style of clothes: a knee to mid-calf length dress worn over matching pants or trousers. The "Turkish Trowser" (gathered at the ankle) style is especially associated with dress reformers, though some favored a plain pant leg; despite modern usage, I've found no period reference to the trouser portion of the ensemble specifically being called "bloomers", though the shortened skirt, or the whole outfit may be thus named.

In short, "drawers" are an undergarment, occasionally also called trousers.  Pants, pantaloons, and trousers all describe male outer garments. Pantalets are intentionally-visible underwear worn by young girls and very young boys; sometimes (rarely) the term refers to women's drawers.  Bloomers are the entire short-dress-and-trouser ensemble worn by some women in the 1850s and occasionally into the 1860s.

Monday, December 14, 2015

Flattery

Godey's, January 1863
How to treat flattery.—If a gentleman approaches you with words of flattery, and profuse attentions, especially after a short acquaintance, extend no encouraging smile or word ; for a flatterer can never be otherwise than an unprofitable companion. It is better, by a dignified composure, to appear not to notice, than, with smiles and blushes, to disclaim flattery ; since these are frequently considered as encouragements for further effusions of these " painted words."
You may with propriety accept such delicate attentions as polished and refined men are desirous of paying, but never solicit them, or appear to be expecting them. 
--The Lady's Guide to Perfect Gentility (1856), 147

Sunday, December 13, 2015

Christmas at the Fort, 1857

On Saturday December 12, Fort Steilacoom hosted it's annual "Christmas at the Fort" candlelight tour.  Captain Jones, Mr. Miller, Mr. Alexander, and yours truly participated, portraying soldiers and their friends celebrating Christmas in 1857 in Washington Territory.  Despite a close call by Father Christmas, we are pleased to note that no one lit themselves on fire on the Christmas Tree this year.

Quarters 3 closed for foundation work, so some scenes were moved to tents outdoors; in Quarters 1, there was a Christmas Tree, music, and delicious cake provided by Mrs. Capt. Mowett.  Quarters 2 saw a lively dance by the younger officers and their sweethearts.

Our brave leader dressed sensibly for the weather.

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Holiday Party

In lieu of a December meeting, the 4th's annual holiday party occurred last Saturday, December the 5th.  Thanks to Mr. & Mrs. Keyes for hosting.

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Walking in Mud, 1856

"When tripping over the pavement, a lady should gracefully raise her dress a little above the ancle. (sic)  With the right hand, she should hold together the folds of her gown, and drawn them towards the right side. To raise the dress on both sides, and with both hands, is vulgar.  This ungraceful practice can only be tolerated for a moment, when the mud is very deep."
--The Lady's Guide to Perfect Gentility (1856) p.80 

Harper's Weekly, February 1865

Sunday, November 29, 2015

Chemises (Shifts, Smocks, Shirts)

Chemise from Der Bazar, 1865
The chemise, a French word meaning "a shirt", is the basic woman's undergarment of the 1860s. By 1865 chemise has replaced the earlier terms smock or shift (Dictionary of English Etymology, page 166), though the role is the same: a washable garment that protects the other garments from sweat and body oils. The corresponding item for a man is the shirt, while infants' garments may be styled either as a chemise or a shirt. For adult women, the chemise serves an additional function in keeping the corset laces off of bare skin.

"...a good chemise may be made for ten pence or one shilling; and this being worn next the skin, is the most important to have constantly changed."
--The Christian Miscellany, 1863

Chemises of the 1860s typically have short sleeves and fit loosely over the body; the fullness is gathered into a yoke or band which fits smoothly from shoulder to shoulder, giving the garment a wide but shallow "boat" neckline.  They often fasten with one or more buttons at the center front, and some may be snugged with drawstrings. The chemise length varies by wearer, typically ending around the knee (period cutting instruction most often call for the body piece to be 45" long, which put it at the mid-to-upper calf of a women 5'2"-5'5").  The hemline is generous to avoid impeding movement, and it may be widened by the use of gussets set into the sides of the chemise.  The chemise is made of white cotton or linen, for easy washing.

Chemise from Peterson's Magazine1860, page 475-6
Diagram of Chemise,
from Peterson's Magazine, 1860















Chemises may be made at home, and the large number of diagrams and instructions in sewing books, textbooks, and popular magazines of the 1850s and 60s, suggest that home manufacture was the most common way to produce chemises.  Trousseau descriptions also recommend starting with the underclothing, as it is most likely to be made at home.  That being said, some undergarments were available for sale in the 1860s.


Advertisement from the Illustrated London News, 1863
"A stock always on hand of Chemises, Nightdresses..."

Reduced-bulk technique for chemises, from Godey's, 1859
Many persons dislike to have any fulness (sic) under their corsets around the waist. The pattern given is very good in avoiding that difficulty. Cut the chemise in the ordinary way. The neck can be finished with either band or yoke. Below the waist on the back, cut the chemise nearly across, leaving about four or fire inches on each side. Gather the fulness from the lower part into a narrow band. Then take all the fulness from the top part except just sufficient to fasten it into the band around the neck, making a small seam up the middle of the back. For those who like a full garment, but not much around the waist, this is a very nice pattern. Join the top to the band, inclosing the fulness below. 
--Godey's Lady's Book, 1859
 As they are meant for easy washing, chemise decoration runs towards white-work embroidery, particularly along the bands or yoke, or on the sleeve.  While embroidery is the most common decoration in extent garments or in magazine suggestions, sturdy tatted lace or self-fabric frills are also possible, likewise valciennes lace which "best sustains the severe ordeal of the laundry". Cassell's Household Guide (1869) advises that chemises be left plain in general, the exceptions being for evening wear or as part of a bride's trousseau (which ideally should contain twelve months worth of undergarments).
A few of the chemise band embroidery patterns published in Godey's in 1859.
Cotton chemise with extensive
white embroidery and braidwork on the yoke,
c. 1856. From The Met.
Linen chemise with broderie anglaise on the
band and sleeves, c.1860-65. From The Met.
How many chemises does a woman own?  Sewing instructions assume twelve chemises being made at once, as they can be cut out more economically that way. A US bankruptcy case from 1842, lists six changes of underclothing among the petitioner's wife's clothing. Laundry, travelling, and wedding advice also offer some clues.

While I cannot find the reference at present, I once read some advice that ladies keep at least two weeks' work of undergarments: one set for wearing while the other was being washed; three sets would allow the laundry to be sent out less often.  Having lots of linen is also crucial to this 1841 plan for improving household efficiency by only washing clothes once every five or six weeks.

A selection of practice conversations in French and English (1851) mention two dozen chemises being packed for a trip. British travelers to India in 1854 are advised to pack six dozen chemises for day wear (but only four dozen pairs of drawers and of cotton stockings).  For immigrants to Australia and New Zealand in the early 1850s, one advice book recommends 12-18 chemises (in addition to ones already owned),  Other guidebooks suggest between 6 and 24 chemises per female passenger, with the latter figure explicitly assuming a four-month ship voyage and limited access to wash water. Another thing to consider is wardrobe proportions: one guidebook calls for immigrant women to pack 12 chemises (the same as the number of cotton stockings), while only suggesting 3 dresses and 2 bonnets. 

Trousseaux are intended to lay in a supply of garments for the new bride's first year or so of housekeeping, giving her more time to arrange the house and get used to her new duties.  Harper's Bazaar (1868) recommends about two dozen cotton and linen chemises, some plain and some decorated, the exact number to depend on how many are already owned.  Princess Anne of Prussia reportedly had "twenty-four dozen day and night chemises" in her 1853 trousseau; biographies of Catherine the Great published in the 1850s underline her poverty by describing a trousseau of only twelve chemises.  For non-royals, the 1856 book Bridal Ettiquette mentions wealthy brides with twelve dozen chemises in their trousseaus, but notes that "those who cannot afford such luxuries, must substitute fewer articles of a more modest but durable kind." Such are likely the target audience for an 1866 magazine advertisement featuring a £20 trousseau; it includes eight chemises.

For close-ups of an original c. 1865 chemise, see The Fashionable Past.

Monday, November 23, 2015

Slang

"Noon-Regent Street" by William Powell Frith, 1862

The use of slang phrases among people of education and social standing seems to be on the increase. We hear them in the drawing-room, from the lips of cultivated men and women, almost as frequently as on the street; but never without an involuntary loss of respect for the persons who use them. A sensible and discriminating writer, referring to this subject, says:--“Ladies frequently use slang phrases, with a slight pause or smile to serve as marks of quotation, or rather as an apology. But to modify a fault is not to remove it. Resolve that you will never use an incorrect, an inelegant, or a vulgar phrase or word, in any society whatever. If you are gifted with wit, you will soon find that it is easy to give it far better point and force in pure English, than through any other medium, and that brilliant thoughts make the deepest impression when well worded. However great it may be, the labor is never lost which earns for you the reputation of one who habitually uses the language of a gentleman, or of a lady.”--Arthur's Home Magazine, 1865

[Those not following this advice may enjoy the following titles:  The Slang Dictionary (London, 1865), A Dictionary of Modern Slang (London, 1859), Dictionary of Americanisms (Boston, 1859).]

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Event: Elementary School Presentation

Sergeant Hicks organized a lovely school presentation yesterday, aided by our own General Grant (aka Mr. Miller).  In addition to Sgt. Hick's brilliant presentation of Union Army Life--primarily through a "hands on" display of rations--Mr. and Mrs. Cook discussed Confederate views while portraying a Southern Chaplain and his wife, and Mr. Adams discussed politics as Gov. Ramsey of Minnesota.  The blogmistress, ever the partisan Union civilian, discussed women's wartime work.

Saturday, November 7, 2015

Auburn Veterans' Day Parade/ Club Elections

It's the Saturday before Veterans' Day, and so members of the 4th (along with other WCWA units) marched in the Veterans' Day Parade in Auburn.

After the parade, as per custom, club elections were held over a repast of pizza. Congratulations to Mr. Talbot, our new chair, Mr. Strand, our new first sergeant, and Mr. Young, our new treasurer. Thank you to everyone who ran and/or voted.  Officers serve two-year terms, so next year we will elect the commander and the civilian leader.



(Edited on 11/10 to add event photos.  Check out the 4th's Facebook Group for video!)

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Borrowing Advice, 1856

Four Rules for Borrowers: 
1. The Iron Rule.--Never borrow anything whatever, if you can possibly do without it, nor then unless with the consent of the owner. 
2.The Silver Rule.-- Use the article borrowed more carefully than if it was you own; don't retain it beyond the time agreed on. 
3. The Golden Rule.--As soon as you have done using the thing borrowed return it, with thanks. 
4. The Diamond Rule.--Never borrow "Peterson's Magazine", but subscribe for it.
-Peterson's Magazine, October 1856 (page 268)


Monday, November 2, 2015

Dressing Advice, 1859

April 1859, Lady's Home Magazine
"Every lady of good taste who is accustomed to move in society, must be aware of the vast importance of adapting her dress to the occasion on which it is worn. Morning dress is not evening dress; nor is the same style of costume which may be appropriate for the carriage, suitable for walking; especially at the present season, when everything of a very showy or costly character contrasts somewhat incongruously with the foggy atmosphere and the muddy streets. But out-door walking dress should be adapted to the time as well as to the occasion. A recherche [elegant or refined] style of dress, which would be very much out of place at ten in the morning, may be perfectly proper and consistent with good taste at a later period of the day. When a lady is seen at an early hour in the morning wearing a dress of moire antique, or a rich flounced silk robe of bright and gay hues, with a bonnet resting on the back of her head and adorned with showy flowers or feathers, people are prompted to exclaim, "Where can she be going?" or "Where can she have come from?" Walking costume in the early morning should be characterised by the most rigorous simplicity. It may consist of a dress of merino, or any other warm woollen (sic) material; a bonnet of grey, brown, or mixed straw, trimmed with dark-colored ribbon or velvet, and a cloak of black or grey cloth. A lady thus attired looks like a lady, and she may walk out at any early hour without exciting attention, or calling forth unpleasant remarks. Nobody will presume to say, "Where can she be going?" or "Where does she come from?" About the middle of the day, and in fine weather, the silk robe, the velvet mantle, the costly cashmere shawl, and the gay bonnet are worn in the right time, and in the carriage, or for walking (as the state of the weather may determine) they are in the right place.  
But if early out-door morning costume (whatever be the rank and condition of the wearer,) should be marked by the most scrupulous simplicity, in-door morning dress, on the other hand, is by no means subject to the same rule. Indeed, this style of costume is frequently distinguished by a remarkable degree of richness The loose peignoir of pointed cashmere is lined with gay colored silk, and confined round the waist by a rich silk cord and tassels. These peignoirs, or loose robes-de-chambre, are sometimes made of plain as well as figured cashmere, and they may be trimmed up the fronts, round the deep cape, and at the ends of the sleeves, with plush or velvet, or with a broad band of quilted satin. The skirt of nansouk [or "nainsook", a fine, plain-woven cotton, "not so closely woven as cambric, but heavier than batiste"*] worn under the peignoir is always ornamented with a broad border of needlework, which is frequently carried up the front in the tablier form. The under-sleeves and collar should be of worked cambric or nansouk muslin." 
--"General Remarks", page 199Lady's Home Magazine, 1859

*Fabric definition from Textiles in America 1650-1870 by Florence M. Montgomery

Saturday, October 24, 2015

Civilian Winter Clothes

The Illustrated London News, Jan 1, 1859
Inspired by Anna Bauersmith's article on seasonal layers, here are project links for warm and winter clothes.  Most are 1859-65, but there are a few earlier ones as well, so check the date when determining if a project suits your impression.

Liz Clark's essays on Dressing Children and Infants for Cold Weather are also highly recommended.






Women's Items
Red Riding Hood, page 79, Peterson's (1862)
Tufted Hood* from Liz Clark
Mrs. Meister's Hood Pattern* (the shape is more 1850s)
Opera Hood (knit), page 122,  Godey's (1862)
Opera Hood (knit), page 378, picture 322, Peterson's (1865)
Norwegian Morning or Bonnet Cap, page 111, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)
Neapolitan Opera Hood, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Quilted Silk Hood, page 359-60,  Peterson's (1859)
Princess Capote, page 415, pic 359, Peterson's (1862) [New research by AWB suggests this may be a summer seaside garment.].
Capeline or Hood, page 287, Godey's (1862)
Algerian Knitted Opera Hood, page 284-5, New Peterson's Magazine (1865)
Knitted Opera or Travelling Hood Trimmed with Swansdown, page 599, 540 (illustrated), Godey's (1862)

Eugenie Collar from Mlle. Riego's Crochet Winter Book (1857)
Knitted Collar, page 171, picture page 115, Peterson's (1862)
Shetland Cravat, page 69-70, Peterson's (1865)
Ermine (knit) Tie and Cuffs, page 31-2, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Lady's Croquet Cuff and Cravate, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
The Eyder Necktie, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Wool Scarf in Crochet (page 312, illustrated 264) Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine (1860)
Braided scarf, with Mrs. Mescher's modern instructions.

Winter Cloak, page 74-75,  Peterson's (1859)
Crochet CapeThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Cloaks, general instructions, How to Do It: Or, Directions for Knowing and Doing Everything Needful (1864)
Winter Mantle or Sortie-De-Bal, in Crochet page 549, Godey's (1858)
Fall Paletote, illustration page 452, diagram 454, Godey's (1859)
Round Jacket for a Lady (knit), page 331-333, Peterson's (1856)
Polka Jacket in Crochet, page 168-169, Peterson's (1856)

Knitted Winter Spencer, page 53-4, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)
Sontag, and Mrs. Mescher's modern translation of it.
Knitted Sontag, page 412-413, Peterson's (1862)
Loose Waistcoat or BodiceThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Habit Shirt or Bodice in Crochet a TricoterThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Under Spencer or JacketThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Chest PreserverThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Knitted Jacket, page 277, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864)
(Also in the Illustrated London Magazine for 1864)
Lady's Under-Vest, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Spanish Jacket, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Winter Jacket in Double Crochet, pages 290-292, Peterson's (1864)
Fall and Winter Jacket, page 444-445, New Peterson Magazine (1865)
Nubia (shawl) with Mrs. Mescher's modern instructions.
Knitted Shawl in Colors, page 419, picture page , Peterson's (1862)
Plaid Shawl, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Biarritz Shawl, page 186, Godey's (1862)

Knitted Undersleeve, from Godey's (1862), page 465
Knitted SleeveThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)

Eugenie Machettes and Lady's Gauntlet Mitts from Mlle. Riego's Crochet Winter Book (1857)
Knitted Gauntlet, from The Lady's Companion (1865), page 55
Instructions for Knitted Mittens and Cuffs: "Another Pair of Lady's Mittens" from Godey's (1862), page 284-5
A New Stitch for Cuffs (crochet), page 187, Godey's, 1862

Knitted Under-Petticoat, from The Lady's Companion (1865), page 166
Knit Drawers, page 174-5, Peterson's (1862)

Crochet Dressing Slipper, page 446, Peterson's (1865)
Knitted Gaiter, page 335, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864)
(Also in the Illustrated London Magazine for 1864)
Furred Winter Shoe, page 358-9,  Peterson's (1859)

Children's Items

Tufted Hood* from Liz Clark
Mrs. Meister's Hood Pattern* (the shape is more 1850s than 1860s)
Boy's Winter Hat in Knitting (page 312, illustrated 264) Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine (1860)
Garden Hood for a Little Girl (knit), page 162-3, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)

Instructions for Knitted Mittens and Cuffs: "Knitted Mittens" for a girl 2-3 years old; from Godey's (1862), page 389
Instructions for Knitted Mittens, for girls 8-10, from The Illustrated Magazine (1863)
Child's Muff in Imitation of Chincilla (knit), page 310, Peterson's (1865)

Infant's Shirt (knit), page 412, Peterson's (1862)

Baby's Sock in Crochet, page 413, Peterson's (1862)
Baby's Sock, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
A Little Girl's Stocking, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Boy's Knickerbocker Stocking (ages 5-6), Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)
Child's Sock (2 patterns)How to Knit Socks (1863)

Crochet Gaiters from Mlle. Riego's Crochet Winter Book (1857)
Child's Warm Shoe in Crochet, page 163, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864) (Also in the Illustrated London Magazine for 1864)
Crochet Boots for an Infant, page 222, The Ladies' Companion and Monthly Magazine (1864)
Baby's Boot in Knitting and Crochet, page 122, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Baby's Boot (quilted/wadded), page 410, Godey's (1862)
Child's Gaiter, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)

Men's Items

Knitted WaistcoatThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Gentleman's Comforter, page 56, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Gentleman's Knit Stockings, page 58-9, The What-not; or Ladies' Handy-book (1861)
Gentleman's Knickerbocker Stocking in ribbed knitting, The Useful Knitting Book (1864)

Knit Knee Warmer, Godey's, 1862
For Everyone:

Basic Wool Shawl*
Two Knitted Comforters (scarves)The Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)

Mrs. Mescher's Muffatees*
Directions to Knit Mittens, page 92, Peterson's (1862)
To Knit a Mitten With One Finger, page 176, Peterson's (1862)
Knitted Mitten and a Very Easy MittenThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Knitted GloveThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Two Muffatee PatternsThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)

Knit StockingThe Queen's Winter Knitting Book (1862)
Knitted Knee Cap (?!?!), page 445, Peterson's (1865)
Socks (2-3 patterns)How to Knit Socks (1863)
Knee Caps, Mlle. Riego's The Useful Knitting Book (1864)

General Knitting Help in Period Sources
The 1862 run of Godey's, includes an explanation of pattern terms on pages 84-85.
The Illustrated Girl's Own Treasury (1861) includes knitting instructions and pattern abbreviations.
Peterson's (also in 1862) includes a variety of new knit stitches to adapt for one own's projects.

*Asterisked projects are modern instructions based on extent period pieces.  The projects not so marked are either period instructions, or modern explanations of period instructions.