Dressing Advice, 1859

April 1859, Lady's Home Magazine

"Every lady of good taste who is accustomed to move in society, must be aware of the vast importance of adapting her dress to the occasion on which it is worn. Morning dress is not evening dress; nor is the same style of costume which may be appropriate for the carriage, suitable for walking; especially at the present season, when everything of a very showy or costly character contrasts somewhat incongruously with the foggy atmosphere and the muddy streets. But out-door walking dress should be adapted to the time as well as to the occasion. A recherche [elegant or refined] style of dress, which would be very much out of place at ten in the morning, may be perfectly proper and consistent with good taste at a later period of the day. When a lady is seen at an early hour in the morning wearing a dress of moire antique, or a rich flounced silk robe of bright and gay hues, with a bonnet resting on the back of her head and adorned with showy flowers or feathers, people are prompted to exclaim, "Where can she be going?" or "Where can she have come from?" Walking costume in the early morning should be characterised by the most rigorous simplicity. It may consist of a dress of merino, or any other warm woollen (sic) material; a bonnet of grey, brown, or mixed straw, trimmed with dark-colored ribbon or velvet, and a cloak of black or grey cloth. A lady thus attired looks like a lady, and she may walk out at any early hour without exciting attention, or calling forth unpleasant remarks. Nobody will presume to say, "Where can she be going?" or "Where does she come from?" About the middle of the day, and in fine weather, the silk robe, the velvet mantle, the costly cashmere shawl, and the gay bonnet are worn in the right time, and in the carriage, or for walking (as the state of the weather may determine) they are in the right place.  

But if early out-door morning costume (whatever be the rank and condition of the wearer,) should be marked by the most scrupulous simplicity, in-door morning dress, on the other hand, is by no means subject to the same rule. Indeed, this style of costume is frequently distinguished by a remarkable degree of richness The loose peignoir of pointed cashmere is lined with gay colored silk, and confined round the waist by a rich silk cord and tassels. These peignoirs, or loose robes-de-chambre, are sometimes made of plain as well as figured cashmere, and they may be trimmed up the fronts, round the deep cape, and at the ends of the sleeves, with plush or velvet, or with a broad band of quilted satin. The skirt of nansouk [or "nainsook", a fine, plain-woven cotton, "not so closely woven as cambric, but heavier than batiste"*] worn under the peignoir is always ornamented with a broad border of needlework, which is frequently carried up the front in the tablier form. The under-sleeves and collar should be of worked cambric or nansouk muslin." 

--"General Remarks", page 199, Lady's Home Magazine, 1859

*Fabric definition from Textiles in America 1650-1870 by Florence M. Montgomery