Clothing Resources for Civilians II

If you don't want to make your own clothing, there are still options available: buy used, hire a dressmaker, or buy off the rack.  Be careful, in all cases, that 1) the materials used is appropriate to the time and garment, 2) the pattern/shape is appropriate to the period and you, and 3) that it fits you, or can be altered to fit you. Women's clothing in particular tends to be highly individualized, and it's hard to reproduce a good, period look if the clothes aren't carefully fitted.  

Appropriate clothing material is a huge topic on its own.  For a quick and dirty guide:

Cottons-- Good choice for daywear.  For dresses, look for period appropriate prints (it's own post), plaids, and stripes.  Solid-colored cotton dresses are rare-to-non-existent, excepting some sheer materials.  Trim on cotton dresses is usually limited to self-fabric accents, with the print of the fabric serving as the decoration. Solid white cotton is used for undergarments (chemises, drawers, petticoats) and white accessories such collars, cuffs, undersleeves, and chemisettes.

Wool-- Lighter weight (tropical) wools are good for day dresses and outerwear.  Solid colors are appropriate, as well as stripes, plaids, and prints (hard to find); finer wool dresses may be richly trimmed.  Some warm undergarments are made of wool (petticoats, drawers, waistcoats).  Wool flannel is also used in gymnastic and bathing costumes.

Silk-- Appropriate for nice day and evening-wear; also for fashion bonnets, fine accessories, and to trim good wool dresses.  Silk dresses may be richly trimmed, or kept plain to show off the material. Solid colors, woven designs (stripes, plaids,"figured" silk), and prints (hard to find) are appropriate.  Look for smooth textures rather than 'slubby' finishes.  Silk is by far the most common material for evening and ball gowns; rare exceptions exist, none of which are cotton quilting prints.

Linen-- Available in the period, but not popular for women's dresses.  May be appropriate in place of cotton for undergarments, white accessories, aprons, and household uses.

Blends of the above were also used in period.  Rayon, polyester, acetate and other synthetic fibers did not exist.  They don't breath as well as natural fibers and melt when exposed to flame--use cautiously or not at all.

[Link warning: outside sites ahead.  Not affiliated with or representative of the 4th US, WCWA, etc. Though I'm aiming to suggest vendors of accurate goods, not all items on linked sites are appropriate for a given impression. This list is not exhaustive, and I have not ordered from all the persons/companies listed, nor can I make any guarantees on their behalf.]

Where to Buy Used

• Facebook groups: Civil War Reenactors Trade Blanket exists for this reason; The Authentic Civil War Civilian and The Civilian Civil War Closet also sometimes have items or shops listed (you can also post requests, ie, "Does anyone have X item for sale to fit a size Y?")
• Talk to other reenactors at events; some of the "sutlers" at WCWA events sell by consignment.
• The authentic campaigner has classified ads, but I have no experience with them (and the site tends towards military).
• Originals by Kay has some used garments posted with their ready-mades
• Ebay (quality varies, go carefully... and run screaming from polyester, 'goth/steampunk' descriptors and most items made abroad) 

Some Custom-Sewists

Originals by Kay, once again
The Fitting Room, custom corsets (local)
Joy Melcher
Michelle Forbes

Where to Shop New (Ready-made)

(These are just a few places I've found which carry accurate items--and not necessarily all the items they carry are accurate for our period.  When in doubt, ask for references, do some research or run it by someone whose taste you trust).

Stockings: Burley & Trowbridge, Ezra Barnhouse Goods, Aldridge Clothiers, Abraham's Lady, Originals by Kay, Mrs. Christen's, The Lady in White (does beautiful work, does not have a website; ask for contact information)

Shoes: Robert Land (I have & love his lady's 1860s shoes), Fugawee's, American Duchess's "Gettysburg" boots, Ezra Barnhouse (slipper and overshoes), NJ Sekela [Edited Mr. Land has retired from shoe-making, at a great loss to the reenacting community.]

Undergarments (Chemise/Drawers, Petticoats, Hoops): The Lady in White, Originals by Kay, Needle and Thread/ Wooded Hamlet (cage crinolines), The Dressmaker's Shop (cage crinonlines)

Women's Dresses: Originals by Kay, Abraham's Lady

Fashion and sun bonnets: Anna Bauersmith, Timely Tresses, Mrs. Parker's Millinery, Miller's Millinery, The Dressmaker's Shop (Here's an interesting post from Anna about the wearing of early '60s fashion bonnets)

Caps and Accessories: Victorian Needle (Jewelry),  Southern Serendipity (headdresses and jewelry), Originals by Kay, again (everything), Talbott & Co (sunbonnets and aprons)


Given how long the ladies' clothing list has become, men's and children's attire will have to wait for another time.