Friday, February 27, 2015

Introductions

"Allow me to introduce you."
New to first-person conversation?  There's no better place to start than at the beginning. The preferred period method for introductions features a person presenting one friend to another--you meet people largely on the recommendation of your existing acquaintances.  
"Mrs. Jones, have you met my sister, Mrs. Smith?"

"Mrs. Denny, allow me to present M. Hugo, from Paris."

"Miss Thomas, may I present Dr. Adams?"

When making an introduction, you always present one person to the other; the higher ranking person is addressed first. To determine precedence in this and most other social situations, some guidelines:
  1. Ladies outrank gentlemen (this is the most important rule)
  2. Married ladies outrank unmarried ladies (also universal)
  3. Older persons outrank young ones
  4. Accord higher precedence to people with whom you are less familiar, and lower to your close family and friends
  5. Social status—this is bit nebulous, unless you're dealing with actual aristocrats—but could come up if you're introducing two people of the similar age, gender, marital status, and proximity to yourself, in which case the one of greater social prominence goes first
Dropping in additional information (relationship to you, recent travel abroad, a visitor's hometown) is appropriate. The idea is to get people acquainted with each other, after all, and those details may help start a conversation.

Miss Leslie (The Behavior Book, 1853) writes that it is acceptable for ladies who are travelling alone to introduce themselves to genteel (female) strangers, when there is no one available to make an introduction. Similarly, persons meeting a the house of a mutual friend (according to Charles Day in Hints on Etiquette and the Usages of Society, 1844) may introduce themselves, as the host's invitation indicates that they are both respectable. Another period option is to present a letter of introduction from a mutual associate.  In certain situations (public balls),  a designated 'floor manager' or 'master of ceremonies' is delegated to introduce potential partners for the dance only; these introductions are different from normal social introductions and do not allow for future social interaction.

In any case, make sure to use social titles and surnames, when speaking to adults. Avoid reenactorisms, such as calling a middle-aged woman "Miss Betty"*, or addressing the postmaster as "George"**.  Use of first names, in period writing and address, is limited to family members, children, servants, and some intimate correspondence between friends. The exception is to differentiate between people with the same title and last name, in which case the first name is added for the junior parties.

Example: The Smith family has four daughters and three sons. Both the eldest son and the eldest daughter are married. The middle son and daughters are grown-up, but unmarried. The youngest son and daughter are still children, and not brought into adult society.

The family is addressed as:

Mr. Smith (dad)
Mrs. Smith (mom)

Mr. John Smith (eldest son)
Mrs. John Smith (daughter-in-law)
Mr. Robert Smith (younger adult son)
(Master) Michael Smith (child)

Mrs. Brown (married daughter)
Mr. Brown (son-in-law)
Miss Smith (eldest unmarried daughter)
Miss Deborah Smith (other unmarried daughter)
(Miss) Liza Smith (child)

In public, Mr. Smith refers to his wife as Mrs. Smith; she calls her husband Mr. Smith (what they say privately is their own business). They call their children by their given names. [Note: Mr. Day's book condemns the practice of calling one's own children Mr._ or Miss_, which means some people did it.]

When Master Smith grows up, he will be styled "Mr. Michael Smith" (unless/until he attains a professional distinction styling him as "Dr.", "Professor", or "Reverend", or assumes a notable military rank). The younger men will continue to use their first names in any situation where multiple "Mr. Smith"s create ambiguity.

Similarly, Mrs. Brown uses her husband's first name when more than one Brown is around. When Miss Smith marries, her sister Deborah will stop using her first name and simply be "Miss Smith". When little Liza is old enough to enter society, if any of her older sisters are still unmarried, she'll be styled Miss Elizabeth Smith. If Deborah never marries, she'll continue to hold the title of "Miss Smith"; in that case, Liza could pass right from "Miss Elizabeth Smith" to "Mrs. MarriedLastName" without ever being the sole "Miss Smith".

Women can attain professional titles, but they are very, very rare. The Rev. Miss Antoinette Brown (later Rev. Mrs. Blackwell) and her future sister-in-law, Dr. Elizabeth Blackwell, are quite exceptional--as is their shared sister-in-law, Lucy Stone.  [In order, they are the first woman ordained by a mainstream protestant sect in America, the first woman to receive a medical degree in America, and the the first prominent woman in America to keep her own name after marriage.]

References
Leslie, Eliza. The Behavior Book. Philadelphia: Willis P. Hazard, 1853. Available here
Day, Charles William. Hints on Etiquette and the Usages of SocietyBoston: William Ticknor & Co, 1844 Available here.
Thornwell, Emily. The Ladies' Guide to Perfect Gentility. New York: Derny & Jackson,1856 Available here.


*That's "Miss Betty Thompson" if she's a spinster, with an elder sister who is also a spinster ("Miss Thompson"); exceptions if you can document a local custom appropriate to your impression

**It's only appropriate if he's your son or brother.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Clothing Resources for Civilians II

If you don't want to make your own clothing, there are still options available: buy used, hire a dressmaker, or buy off the rack.  Be careful, in all cases, that 1) the materials used is appropriate to the time and garment, 2) the pattern/shape is appropriate to the period and you, and 3) that it fits you, or can be altered to fit you. Women's clothing in particular tends to be highly individualized, and it's hard to reproduce a good, period look if the clothes aren't carefully fitted.  

Appropriate clothing material is a huge topic on its own.  For a quick and dirty guide:

Cottons-- Good choice for daywear.  For dresses, look for period appropriate prints (it's own post), plaids, and stripes.  Solid-colored cotton dresses are rare-to-non-existent, excepting some sheer materials.  Trim on cotton dresses is usually limited to self-fabric accents, with the print of the fabric serving as the decoration. Solid white cotton is used for undergarments (chemises, drawers, petticoats) and white accessories such collars, cuffs, undersleeves, and chemisettes.

Wool-- Lighter weight (tropical) wools are good for day dresses and outerwear.  Solid colors are appropriate, as well as stripes, plaids, and prints (hard to find); finer wool dresses may be richly trimmed.  Some warm undergarments are made of wool (petticoats, drawers, waistcoats).  Wool flannel is also used in gymnastic and bathing costumes.

Silk-- Appropriate for nice day and evening-wear; also for fashion bonnets, fine accessories, and to trim good wool dresses.  Silk dresses may be richly trimmed, or kept plain to show off the material. Solid colors, woven designs (stripes, plaids,"figured" silk), and prints (hard to find) are appropriate.  Look for smooth textures rather than 'slubby' finishes.  Silk is by far the most common material for evening and ball gowns; rare exceptions exist, none of which are cotton quilting prints.

Linen-- Available in the period, but not popular for women's dresses.  May be appropriate in place of cotton for undergarments, white accessories, aprons, and household uses.

Blends of the above were also used in period.  Rayon, polyester, acetate and other synthetic fibers did not exist.  They don't breath as well as natural fibers and melt when exposed to flame--use cautiously or not at all.

[Link warning: outside sites ahead.  Not affiliated with or representative of the 4th US, WCWA, etc. Though I'm aiming to suggest vendors of accurate goods, not all items on linked sites are appropriate for a given impression. This list is not exhaustive, and I have not ordered from all the persons/companies listed, nor can I make any guarantees on their behalf.]

Where to Buy Used
  • Facebook groups: Civil War Reenactors Trade Blanket exists for this reason; The Authentic Civil War Civilian and The Civilian Civil War Closet also sometimes have items or shops listed (you can also post requests, ie, "Does anyone have X item for sale to fit a size Y?")
  • Talk to other reenactors at events; some of the "sutlers" at WCWA events sell by consignment.
  • The authentic campaigner has classified ads, but I have no experience with them (and the site tends towards military).
  • Originals by Kay has some used garments posted with their ready-mades
  • Ebay (quality varies, go carefully... and run screaming from polyester, 'goth/steampunk' descriptors and most items made abroad) 

Some Custom-Sewists

Originals by Kay, once again
The Fitting Room, custom corsets (local)
Joy Melcher
Michelle Forbes

Where to Shop New (Ready-made)

(These are just a few places I've found which carry accurate items--and not necessarily all the items they carry are accurate for our period.  When in doubt, ask for references, do some research or run it by someone whose taste you trust).

Stockings: Burley & TrowbridgeEzra Barnhouse GoodsAldridge ClothiersAbraham's LadyOriginals by Kay, Mrs. Christen's, The Lady in White (does beautiful work, does not have a website; ask for contact information)

Shoes: Robert Land (I have & love his lady's 1860s shoes)Fugawee'sAmerican Duchess's "Gettysburg" bootsEzra Barnhouse (slipper and overshoes), NJ Sekela [Edited Mr. Land has retired from shoe-making, at a great loss to the reenacting community.]

Undergarments (Chemise/Drawers, Petticoats, Hoops): The Lady in White, Originals by Kay, Needle and Thread/ Wooded Hamlet (cage crinolines), The Dressmaker's Shop (cage crinonlines)

Women's Dresses: Originals by KayAbraham's Lady

Fashion and sun bonnets: Anna BauersmithTimely TressesMrs. Parker's MillineryMiller's MillineryThe Dressmaker's Shop (Here's an interesting post from Anna about the wearing of early '60s fashion bonnets)

Caps and Accessories: Victorian Needle (Jewelry),  Southern Serendipity (headdresses and jewelry), Originals by Kay, again (everything), Talbott & Co (sunbonnets and aprons)


Given how long the ladies' clothing list has become, men's and children's attire will have to wait for another time.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Event: Lincoln Funeral Display

Over Presidents' Day weekend, members of the 4th US attended a display of 19th century funerary customs, whereat we interacted with the public, and added a great deal to the ambiance. The focus of the event, held at Evergreen-Washelli Funeral Home (Seattle), was a reproduction of Abraham Lincoln's coffin.  On Monday afternoon, there was also an informative presentation on the Lincoln assassination, and the late president's elaborate funeral(s).

The Union Army honors our late President Lincoln, Photo-credit to Mr. Scriver.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Corset Supplies 101: What are These Things?

Making one's first corset, there are a number of unfamiliar terms and items.  Since you can't (usually) go to the local fabric shop and look at them, here's a virtual petting zoo.

Actual petting zoo also available--drop a note, and I'll bring examples to the next meeting.

The Hardware
From right to left: 1/2" straight steel, (2) 1/4" straight steels, (2) 1/4" spiral steels, 1 pair of lacing bones, wooden busk, staight (separating) steel busk, spoon busk.   Across the bottom is a 'featherlight' plastic bone.

The Busks
The wooden busk (a solid piece of hardwood, about 1/8" thick, 14" long, tapers from 2" to 1") is older than the civil war period.  There are used in renaissance/Tudor/Elizabethan stays, up to the early nineteenth century.

The separating steel busk dates from about 1851, making it ideal for ACW use.  This busk consists of two 1/2" straight steels (just like the bones on the far left), with studs and loops which allow them to hook together.  The great benefit of this busk is that it allow one to put on the corset without fully unlacing it--you can loosely lace the corset, fasten the busk and then tighten the laces, instead of actually lacing them behind your back; to take it off, you just need to loosen the laces slightly so the busk isn't under pressure and then unhook it. No need to actually unlace anything.  This style of busk is most often around 12", but can also be found in 1/2" sizes ranging from 6" to 14", depending on the style of corset and size of the wearer.

The spoon busk post-dates the civil war. It was invented c.1871, and helps make the long lines of the late-19th-century bodice.  Note the "bend", as well as the wider base. Shorter-waisted 1850s-1860s gowns don't require the abdominal shaping of spoon-busk corsets.

The Bones

Most of my corsets use 1/4" straight steels.  They're lightweight, flexible on one axis (making them good for straight seams, less so for curvy ones), and can be ordered in a variety of pre-cut sizes.  Some sources sell them in continuous lengths, which can be cut to the desired size.  The ends are blunted and coated against rust.
You can bend straight steels (front-back), but can't twist or bend them side-to-side
The 1/2" steels are the same as the 1/4", just wider.  Some people like to use them behind the separating busks for extra rigidity.

The wider steels still bend, less easily
The spiral steels can bend in two directions: front-back and side-side.  The only way they don't move is in (you can't compress them like a slinky).  They (apparently) weren't invented until the 1880s, but can take the place of whalebone as flexible stays.  Spiral steels can be bought in bulk and cut down, as well; note the metal end caps.
Spiral bones are very bendy
Lacing bones are optional.  I love them, many other people do not.  They are used to support the eyelets through which the corset is laced.  Typically, the eyelets are placed between two (or more) bones, to keep the fabric straight around them.  (I used this method on my regency stays, for instance).  The lacing bones are rigid 1/2" steels with holes for the eyelets, so that separate bones do not need to be placed on either side.
Lacing bones don't bend at all
Featherlight plastic boning can be found in notions section of JoAnns.  Usual benefits: easy to get, comes with own casing, can be sewn through, desired size can be adjusted with scissors.   Down-sides: less supportive as it doesn't hold shape easily, not a period material, dulling the cut edges is annoying.
Plastic boning is also bendy
Not pictured: German artificial whalebone (a plastic option which behaves more like whalebone), zip ties (sturdier than the featherlight, but bulkier and less comfortable than true steels).  I sometimes use zip ties for steels during the mock-up phase.  Another period option is to use rows of cording to stiffen the corset (as with a corded petticoat).  Reed was used in the 18th century and earlier, but I've seen no evidence for its use in the 1860s.


Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Clothing Resources for Civilians I

Following up on the "what to wear" post: where to get what you wear.

For the budget-minded reenactor, making your own clothing is by far the most economical option.  If you know how to sew, great!  If you want to learn, even better!  We're happy to help.  There are also other options: get something custom made, buy used, or buy "off the rack".  Whatever your choice(s), here are some on-line resources you may find helpful.

[Note: Outside sites ahead.  They don't represent the views of the 4th US or WCWA, etc. I am also not affliated with any, save for my personal blog, which is all my own views and not those of the 4th, etc.]

Sewing Advice and General Help

Patterns

  • KayFig/ FigLeaf (I've made up the Simplicity 2890 undergarments and the Kay Figg 611 wrapper, and highly recommend the designer based on these.  My thoughts on the wrapper pattern.)
  • The Dressmaker's Guide  I love this one so much that I now have two copies of it.  Full effusive praise here.
  • Past Patterns (Do not have personal experience with most of these, I hear mostly good things about them, and the lines are good)
  • Truly Victorian (Ditto)
  • Laughing Moon (Again, haven't personally made them, but they come highly recommended)
  • Simplicity: I have a lot of these, and have made up several of them (they go on-sale for $1-2 at Jo-Ann regularly).  The "Fashion Historian" and "Museum Curator" lines have good shapes, but you do need to be careful of modern techniques and ease added by the publisher (see this discussion and this one for specific commentary).  Avoid the steampunk and generic "historic" costume patterns. Currently in print, there seams to be one dress, and two undergarment sets.

For soft bonnets, there are some free patterns on line. For fancier wear, patterns, kits, blanks, and complete bonnets are available through Miller's Millinery, Timely Tresses (I am, again, a very satisfied customer), Mrs. Parker's, and Anna Worden Bauersmith (she makes lovely straw forms).

Weird Supplies, on-line
(hook-and-eye tape, hem tape, hoop steel, corset boning and busks, metal grommet setters, etc.)

  • Farthingale's Canada: my favorite place for busks and corset bones
  • Corsetmaking: corset & hoop supplies; I had a bad experience with their buckram-covered hoop steel
  • Originals by Kay: corset and hoop kits, hook-and-eye tape 
  • Abraham's Lady: corset supplies, hoopsteel, bonnet wire, twill tape, and hook-and-eye tape; I would personally not recommend using cotton hem tape, though 
  • Needle & Thread/ Wooded Hamlet: cage crinoline kits, tapes and trims 
  • Wm. Booth, Draper: wool tape and fine fabrics; this establishment caters to 18th century costuming, and not all items are appropriate for 19th century use
  • The Button Baron: buttons; note the year range (1840-1940), not all buttons are appropriate for all uses 

Local Suppliers (mostly Seattle, WA)
  • The Fitting Room: the ONLY local source I know for corset supplies; also makes custom corsets
  • Nancy's Sewing Basket: best local source for silks and fine cotton material; they also carry silk ribbon and vintage flowers for bonnets; be prepared to pay for quality
  • Pacific Fabrics: has some silks and passable cotton prints
  • Hancock Fabrics: carries 100% cotton shirting plaids, 100% cotton broadcloth for undergarments 
  • JoAnn: calico print selection getting very sparse; still carries Simplicity & Butterick patterns (see above); utility section includes 100% cotton crinoline (for lining fashion bonnets), toweling, and buckram (this is too flimsy for bonnet use, but can work in belts and swiss waists); muslin for toiles, linings, and cheap undergarments
  • Timeless Stitches (in the Tacoma Antique Mall) has shell, glass, and metal buttons, and other vintage sewing supplies [There's also a Timeless Stitches which sets up at WCWA events; these do not appear to be related]  
  • Pendleton Woolen Mill Outlet (Portland), carries wools
  • The Annual Sewing and Stitchery Expo has all manner of material and notions; best bet for laces and trims
  • Fremont Sunday Market: flea-market vendors occasionally carry usable vintage buttons
  • Hardwick's (in the U-district) has size 00 grommets and setting tools, and bolt cutters for your hoop-steel-cutting needs. 

This is getting a bit long, so the next installment will include resources for non-sewers.