Chemises (Shifts, Smocks, Shirts)

Chemise from Der Bazar, 1865

The chemise, a French word meaning "a shirt", is the basic woman's undergarment of the 1860s. By 1865 chemise has replaced the earlier terms smock or shift (Dictionary of English Etymology, page 166), though the role is the same: a washable garment that protects the other garments from sweat and body oils. The corresponding item for a man is the shirt, while infants' garments may be styled either as a chemise or a shirt. For adult women, the chemise serves an additional function in keeping the corset laces off of bare skin.

"...a good chemise may be made for ten pence or one shilling; and this being worn next the skin, is the most important to have constantly changed."
--The Christian Miscellany, 1863

Chemises of the 1860s typically have short sleeves and fit loosely over the body; the fullness is gathered into a yoke or band which fits smoothly from shoulder to shoulder, giving the garment a wide but shallow "boat" neckline.  They often fasten with one or more buttons at the center front, and some may be snugged with drawstrings. The chemise length varies by wearer, typically ending around the knee (period cutting instruction most often call for the body piece to be 45" long, which put it at the mid-to-upper calf of a women 5'2"-5'5").  The hemline is generous to avoid impeding movement, and it may be widened by the use of gussets set into the sides of the chemise.  The chemise is made of white cotton or linen, for easy washing.

Chemise from Peterson's Magazine, 1860, page 475-6

Diagram of Chemise,
from Peterson's Magazine, 1860

Chemises may be made at home, and the large number of diagrams and instructions in sewing books, textbooks, and popular magazines of the 1850s and 60s, suggest that home manufacture was the most common way to produce chemises.  Trousseau descriptions also recommend starting with the underclothing, as it is most likely to be made at home.  That being said, some undergarments were available for sale in the 1860s.

Advertisement from the Illustrated London News, 1863
"A stock always on hand of Chemises, Nightdresses..."

Reduced-bulk technique for chemises, from Godey's, 1859

Many persons dislike to have any fulness (sic) under their corsets around the waist. The pattern given is very good in avoiding that difficulty. Cut the chemise in the ordinary way. The neck can be finished with either band or yoke. Below the waist on the back, cut the chemise nearly across, leaving about four or fire inches on each side. Gather the fulness from the lower part into a narrow band. Then take all the fulness from the top part except just sufficient to fasten it into the band around the neck, making a small seam up the middle of the back. For those who like a full garment, but not much around the waist, this is a very nice pattern. Join the top to the band, inclosing the fulness below. 
--Godey's Lady's Book, 1859

 As they are meant for easy washing, chemise decoration runs towards white-work embroidery, particularly along the bands or yoke, or on the sleeve.  While embroidery is the most common decoration in extent garments or in magazine suggestions, sturdy tatted lace or self-fabric frills are also possible, likewise valciennes lace which "best sustains the severe ordeal of the laundry". Cassell's Household Guide (1869) advises that chemises be left plain in general, the exceptions being for evening wear or as part of a bride's trousseau (which ideally should contain twelve months worth of undergarments).

A few of the chemise band embroidery patterns published in Godey's in 1859.

Cotton chemise with extensive
white embroidery and braidwork on the yoke,
c. 1856. From The Met.

Linen chemise with broderie anglaise on the
band and sleeves, c.1860-65. From The Met.

How many chemises does a woman own?  Sewing instructions assume twelve chemises being made at once, as they can be cut out more economically that way. A US bankruptcy case from 1842, lists six changes of underclothing among the petitioner's wife's clothing. Laundry, travelling, and wedding advice also offer some clues.

While I cannot find the reference at present, I once read some advice that ladies keep at least two weeks' work of undergarments: one set for wearing while the other was being washed; three sets would allow the laundry to be sent out less often.  Having lots of linen is also crucial to this 1841 plan for improving household efficiency by only washing clothes once every five or six weeks.

A selection of practice conversations in French and English (1851) mention two dozen chemises being packed for a trip. British travelers to India in 1854 are advised to pack six dozen chemises for day wear (but only four dozen pairs of drawers and of cotton stockings).  For immigrants to Australia and New Zealand in the early 1850s, one advice book recommends 12-18 chemises (in addition to ones already owned),  Other guidebooks suggest between 6 and 24 chemises per female passenger, with the latter figure explicitly assuming a four-month ship voyage and limited access to wash water. Another thing to consider is wardrobe proportions: one guidebook calls for immigrant women to pack 12 chemises (the same as the number of cotton stockings), while only suggesting 3 dresses and 2 bonnets. 

Trousseaux are intended to lay in a supply of garments for the new bride's first year or so of housekeeping, giving her more time to arrange the house and get used to her new duties.  Harper's Bazaar (1868) recommends about two dozen cotton and linen chemises, some plain and some decorated, the exact number to depend on how many are already owned.  Princess Anne of Prussia reportedly had "twenty-four dozen day and night chemises" in her 1853 trousseau; biographies of Catherine the Great published in the 1850s underline her poverty by describing a trousseau of only twelve chemises.  For non-royals, the 1856 book Bridal Ettiquette mentions wealthy brides with twelve dozen chemises in their trousseaus, but notes that "those who cannot afford such luxuries, must substitute fewer articles of a more modest but durable kind." Such are likely the target audience for an 1866 magazine advertisement featuring a £20 trousseau; it includes eight chemises.

For close-ups of an original c. 1865 chemise, see The Fashionable Past.

Slang

"Noon-Regent Street" by William Powell Frith, 1862

The use of slang phrases among people of education and social standing seems to be on the increase. We hear them in the drawing-room, from the lips of cultivated men and women, almost as frequently as on the street; but never without an involuntary loss of respect for the persons who use them. A sensible and discriminating writer, referring to this subject, says:--“Ladies frequently use slang phrases, with a slight pause or smile to serve as marks of quotation, or rather as an apology. But to modify a fault is not to remove it. Resolve that you will never use an incorrect, an inelegant, or a vulgar phrase or word, in any society whatever. If you are gifted with wit, you will soon find that it is easy to give it far better point and force in pure English, than through any other medium, and that brilliant thoughts make the deepest impression when well worded. However great it may be, the labor is never lost which earns for you the reputation of one who habitually uses the language of a gentleman, or of a lady.”--Arthur's Home Magazine, 1865

[Those not following this advice may enjoy the following titles:  The Slang Dictionary (London, 1865), A Dictionary of Modern Slang (London, 1859), Dictionary of Americanisms (Boston, 1859).]

Event: Elementary School Presentation

Sergeant Hicks organized a lovely school presentation yesterday, aided by our own General Grant (aka Mr. Miller).  In addition to Sgt. Hick's brilliant presentation of Union Army Life--primarily through a "hands on" display of rations--Mr. and Mrs. Cook discussed Confederate views while portraying a Southern Chaplain and his wife, and Mr. Adams discussed politics as Gov. Ramsey of Minnesota.  The blogmistress, ever the partisan Union civilian, discussed women's wartime work.

Auburn Veterans' Day Parade/ Club Elections

It's the Saturday before Veterans' Day, and so members of the 4th (along with other WCWA units) marched in the Veterans' Day Parade in Auburn.

After the parade, as per custom, club elections were held over a repast of pizza. Congratulations to Mr. Talbot, our new chair, Mr. Strand, our new first sergeant, and Mr. Young, our new treasurer. Thank you to everyone who ran and/or voted.  Officers serve two-year terms, so next year we will elect the commander and the civilian leader.

(Edited on 11/10 to add event photos.  Check out the 4th's Facebook Group for video!)

Borrowing Advice, 1856

Four Rules for Borrowers: 

1. The Iron Rule.--Never borrow anything whatever, if you can possibly do without it, nor then unless with the consent of the owner. 

2.The Silver Rule.-- Use the article borrowed more carefully than if it was you own; don't retain it beyond the time agreed on. 

3. The Golden Rule.--As soon as you have done using the thing borrowed return it, with thanks. 

4. The Diamond Rule.--Never borrow "Peterson's Magazine", but subscribe for it.

-Peterson's Magazine, October 1856 (page 268)

Dressing Advice, 1859

April 1859, Lady's Home Magazine

"Every lady of good taste who is accustomed to move in society, must be aware of the vast importance of adapting her dress to the occasion on which it is worn. Morning dress is not evening dress; nor is the same style of costume which may be appropriate for the carriage, suitable for walking; especially at the present season, when everything of a very showy or costly character contrasts somewhat incongruously with the foggy atmosphere and the muddy streets. But out-door walking dress should be adapted to the time as well as to the occasion. A recherche [elegant or refined] style of dress, which would be very much out of place at ten in the morning, may be perfectly proper and consistent with good taste at a later period of the day. When a lady is seen at an early hour in the morning wearing a dress of moire antique, or a rich flounced silk robe of bright and gay hues, with a bonnet resting on the back of her head and adorned with showy flowers or feathers, people are prompted to exclaim, "Where can she be going?" or "Where can she have come from?" Walking costume in the early morning should be characterised by the most rigorous simplicity. It may consist of a dress of merino, or any other warm woollen (sic) material; a bonnet of grey, brown, or mixed straw, trimmed with dark-colored ribbon or velvet, and a cloak of black or grey cloth. A lady thus attired looks like a lady, and she may walk out at any early hour without exciting attention, or calling forth unpleasant remarks. Nobody will presume to say, "Where can she be going?" or "Where does she come from?" About the middle of the day, and in fine weather, the silk robe, the velvet mantle, the costly cashmere shawl, and the gay bonnet are worn in the right time, and in the carriage, or for walking (as the state of the weather may determine) they are in the right place.  

But if early out-door morning costume (whatever be the rank and condition of the wearer,) should be marked by the most scrupulous simplicity, in-door morning dress, on the other hand, is by no means subject to the same rule. Indeed, this style of costume is frequently distinguished by a remarkable degree of richness The loose peignoir of pointed cashmere is lined with gay colored silk, and confined round the waist by a rich silk cord and tassels. These peignoirs, or loose robes-de-chambre, are sometimes made of plain as well as figured cashmere, and they may be trimmed up the fronts, round the deep cape, and at the ends of the sleeves, with plush or velvet, or with a broad band of quilted satin. The skirt of nansouk [or "nainsook", a fine, plain-woven cotton, "not so closely woven as cambric, but heavier than batiste"*] worn under the peignoir is always ornamented with a broad border of needlework, which is frequently carried up the front in the tablier form. The under-sleeves and collar should be of worked cambric or nansouk muslin." 

--"General Remarks", page 199, Lady's Home Magazine, 1859

*Fabric definition from Textiles in America 1650-1870 by Florence M. Montgomery