Another tool to train the eye: contemporary paintings. These can be a fascinating resource for material culture and clothing in context--as well as activities and attitudes of the time.
For our military men, what fun details can you spot in this 1863 painting?
Children playing, mom in her wrapper with a newspaper and the baby, an apron-wearing servant wiping the dishes. Note the children's headgear as they play soldiers: a folded paper hat, an actual kepi, and I-don't-know-what on the youngest's head. In the background, a draped table and what may be breakfast dishes.
There's all sorts of fun material culture details here. The hand luggage includes a carpet bag with a card on the handle, some red patterned cloth (a shawl?) tied into a bundle, and a stouter cloth pack tied with cords. The young woman has taken off her straw bonnet (unlined, no frill, straw curtain), but still wears her cloak, with the hood off; the mother wears an attached hood drawn over her bonnet, while the third lady has kept her bonnet on. The young man wears no head covering, while the older one in the background seems to have a two-toned hat--a trick of the light? a straw hat with a very broad black hatband? a black hat with some sort of facing on the underside of the brim? a hat with brim and crown of different materials? There's also the characteristics of the train itself--the wooden benches, the open car, advertisements on the wall (contrast to the
"First Class", by the same artist, whose occupants enjoy separated, upholstered seats in a private carriage).
So much detail! Blinds and layered curtains on the windows, the identical chandeliers in the two parlors, which are divided by curtains The men have removed their hats, while the women (including the bride!) continue to wear bonnets, save for an old woman in a cap and a young woman bare-headed. Three young girls (bridesmaids?) wear identical striped white dresses with cloaks--on one, you can see a pink waist sash with scalloped edges.
Some Artists to Look Out For
William Powell Frith, British genre painter, 19th century
William Hemsley, British genre painter, 19th century, many paintings of rural children
Winslow Homer, American, 1860s-1900s, slice of life images, include soldiers and leisure activities
Abraham Solomon, a British painter active in the 1840s-1860s; historic and contemporary subjects
Lily Martin Spencer, American genre painter, 1850s-1860s, focused on women and children.
Francis Xavier Winterhalter, German, 1830s-1870s, famous for portraits of royalty.
Other Collections
The Atheneum (you can search by
year as well as artist!)
19th Century Genre Paintings on Wikipedia
The Victorian and Albert Museum (use advanced search to find paintings and narrow the year range)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art (ditto)
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