Welcome to 1860!
There's lots to see and do, and no time like the present (or rather, the past).
Who Am I?/ What am I doing?/What should I wear?
There's more to reenacting/living history than clothing, but it is a highly visible part of the hobby. In addition to being accurate (the 1860s were a long time ago, but not all 'olde tyme' things suit the 1860s), your clothing should also be suitable to the activities you'll be doing and and character/persona you may be presenting.
No one outfit is appropriate for all activities, so make sure that your first outfit suits the activities you will be pursuing, and at the time of year you will be doing them. You don't wear the same clothing for Christmas caroling that you would for working in your garden in the summer, nor does a nurse wear the same outfit as a society hostess.
Even if you really don't want to make a persona, give some thought to what you intend to
do at the reenactment. Are you fighting in a skirmish? Cooking over an open fire? Minding children? Just hanging out in funny clothes? Demonstrating a craft or profession? Lecturing?
The soldier has a uniform. The crafter will want serviceable garments with accessories which suit his/her occupation, such a blacksmith's leather apron, or a clerk's sleeve protectors. The lecturer will want neat, respectable garments in styles suitable to his/her class background. Washable cottons and water/dirt/flame-resistant wools are a boon for laborers, servants, nurses and cooks. Hoops are a simultaneously ubiquitous for women in the period and hazardous in certain situations (factories, open fires, crowded hospital wards); let your activities dictate whether you wear one. For example, when I'm cooking in a period kitchen, my complete outfit looks like this:
- basic underwear: drawers/chemise/corset (keeps my other clothing clean, provides back/bust/torso support, allows easy use of the necessary)
- shoes
- a corded petticoat (keeps the skirts from wrapping around one's legs)
- a second petticoat (for the period shape and to keep my skirts from drooping--this is a weak imitation of the fashionable ideal); for dirty work, the outermost petticoat can be made of printed material, with the dress skirt tied up above it
- a basic cotton print dress (bodice and skirt joined as one piece, washable material) with sleeves that can be rolled up
- a neckerchief or basted collar (keeps the dress cleaner during sweaty work)
- pinner apron (protects the front of the dress); I have several cotton stripe and print aprons which can be washed; wool ones are also useful for putting out fires
- wool shawl (not worn while cooking; kept on hand to haul supplies and smother small fires)
- hair dressed up, with no decoration (center part, back bun, side hair varies with year portrayed)
- plain handkerchief
- sunbonnet (worn when going outside)
Contrast with a more genteel lady:
- basic underwear: drawers/chemise/corset (as before)
- shoes
- a cage or hoop (for the fashionable silhouette)
- additional petticoats (smooth the hoop line, add additional 'loft' for a fashionable look)
- a well-fitted dress of wool, fine cotton, or silk, with tasteful trimming (may be conservative or follow the fashionable fads)
- white collar and cuffs/undersleeves (these keep the neck and wrists of the dress tidy)
- brooch or neck ribbon, and other tasteful accessories such as a pocket watch, fashion belt, jewelry, etc.
- wool or silk shawl/wrap/mantel
- gloves
- hair dressed (as before), may add combs, a decorative net, a fine cap, or other accessories
- handkerchief (plain or decorated)
- fashionable bonnet or hood (worn in public spaces)
- parasol (when going outside)
Most WCWA events take place during the summer, in outdoor settings and camps. You'll want to start with clothing that is washable, cool for summer wear, and able to be layered against rain or cold weather. Medium, lightweight, or sheer cottons and tropical or sheer wools are good to start with. Additional (wool) layers, like shawls, paletotes, hoods, sontags, muffatees, and warm stockings will help you stay comfortable in cool evenings and morning. These can also be employed for our few cold-weather events (Christmas at Fort Steilacoom, the Auburn Veterans' Day Parade). I've also found rubber overshoes very useful for reenacting in wet weather.
Recommended articles: Mrs. Clark's
Assembling Your Best Bet Wardrobe, and
Defining the Work Dress cover the basics of selecting garments. Anna Worden Bauer's
Beginning Guidelines for Women are also very informative (as are her
other articles).
Next Time: Where do you find this stuff?
